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Feeding Your Horse Beet Pulp

Horses who are easy keepers rarely need much more than their regular ration of hay and perhaps a little grain.  However, if your horse is a hard keeper, you will know the frustration of trying to get as much nutrition into your horse as possible, without upsetting his delicate digestive tract.  For these horses who can eat and eat but not put on weight, beet pulp can be a safe and economic dietary additive.

Beet pulp is made during the process of making beet sugar from sugar beets.  Since it is such a fibrous material, it can often be fed to horses in place of hay and still give them the dietary fiber they need.  Additionally, beet pulp has approximately the same amount of calories as horse oats but has the added benefit of providing these calories as fiber instead of starch.  This can make it a safer feed for preventing bouts of colic or laminitis.  It is also higher in calcium than most grains, and the protein levels are similar to many good quality grass hays.

Contrary to popular opinion, beet pulp does not need to be soaked overnight before feeding to it to your horse.  Most horses do not have any problem eating dry beet pulp unless they gobble down their food, putting them at risk of choking, or don’t have access to fresh water, as this can cause stomach damage.  However, soaking your beet pulp prior to feeding can have some advantages, including increasing your horse’s water consumption and making it easier for senior horses to chew and digest.  As with any diet change, consult with your veterinarian first if you are considering adding beet pulp to your horse’s intake.

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Good Pasture for Your Horses

Keeping your horse out on pasture is the absolute ideal when it comes to giving your horse a more natural life and allowing him free movement that prevents such difficulties as stocking up and arthritis.  However, not all pastures are created equal.  Here are some things to look out for when evaluating possible pastureland for your horse.

  • Pasture should be rich in grass and short on weeds.  Where there are a lot of weeds and little grass, your horse will have a harder time keeping his nutritional needs met. 
  • Know what poisonous weeds are common in your area and walk the pasture thoroughly to ensure that none are available to your horse.  Don’t forget to check trees and shrubs as well and also check areas beyond the fence line that your horse might be able to reach.
  • All pastures should have secure and safe fencing and gates to prevent your horse from escaping, and also prevent injury should your horse interact with it.  Fences should be at least five feet tall.  Electric fencing can be an excellent option to be used in conjunction with traditional fencing, as it can prevent the horses from inflicting daily wear and tear.  Barbed wire is never a good option for horses.
  • Make sure the pasture is free from debris.  Horses can easily hurt themselves by tripping over or stepping on items hidden around the field.  Check for the possibility of construction materials, in particular nails and sharp objects that could cause a hoof puncture.
  • Provide shelter for your horse, either with a run-in shed or trees that provide good cover and shade.
  • Your horse must have easy access to drinking water.  If in a trough, ensure that the water does not go dry by checking it daily, and if relying on natural water sources keep in mind they should be running and clear, rather than stagnant.
  • The pasture should have good drainage and not have large areas of boggy, muddy ground.  Not only can deep mud cause your horse to pull shoes and come up with injuries, it can also provide the right environment for skin infections and thrush, not to mention making it difficult for an owner to access the field to catch their horse.
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Minerals and Horses

Minerals are necessary for most chemical reactions occurring within your horse’s body.  Calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium, sodium and sulfur are the main minerals needed by your horse.  Common salt blocks usually only contain very small amounts of minerals, and are in fact mostly sodium.  Although your horse will get some of these other minerals from his hay and grain, it is sometimes necessary to feed a supplement.  If you have concerns that your horse’s diet may be lacking in this area, check with your veterinarian.  Minerals are very important parts of your horse’s diet, and deficiencies can cause such difficulties as rickets, fragile bones, weakness or lethargy, anxiety, lack of appetite and weight loss, and dehydration.

There are many trace minerals that are also important for your horse, such as zinc for his feet, and copper and iron for healthy blood.  These minerals are no less important than the main ones, but are needed by the body in much smaller quantities.

Be aware that too much can actually be a bad thing.  For instance, calcium and phosphorus must exist in a delicate ratio of about 2:1.  Upsetting this balance can cause weak bones and detached tendons.  Your horse will require a very specific balance of minerals depending on his age, weight, and condition.  This is not an area for guess work, but should first involve consultation with your veterinarian.  If you are concerned about your horse’s mineral intake, have your feed and hay tested to see if it is deficient in any way.  Also, different geographical regions will have deficiencies in different minerals in the soil, so be aware of what minerals are common in your area.

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Should I Feed My Horse Treats?

Hand-feeding treats to horses is a rather controversial subject.  While some horse owners have no difficulty with giving treats to their horses, others find themselves with pushy, nippy animals who become dangerous in their quest for snacks.  How do you safely feed treats to your horse without causing bad behaviour?  First and foremost, you need to know your horse.  Watch his behaviour carefully when you hand-feed treats, and be prepared to stop should you witness any behavioural changes, however slight.  Even calm and quiet horses can become food monsters when there are treats to be had, so consider the following safety tips before doling out the goodies:

  • The safest way to feed treats is in a bucket.  Not only does it protect your fingers from any stray nips, but it will also prevent your horse from associating your hands with treats.
  • Never feed treats in a situation where you have several loose horses around you.  You may think you are being sly, but the others will quickly figure out what is going on and you may wind up being crowded or even knocked over by the eager horses.
  • Your horse will remember how you have fed him in the past.  I know one person who allowed the horses in the barn to help themselves to carrots that she had sticking out of the chest pockets on her coat.  Not surprisingly, the horses became nippy at people’s chests, creating a potentially dangerous situation.
  • Be cautious of overfeeding.  A nice pat or rubdown is just as good a treat as a carrot stick.  You will want to avoid filling your horse’s stomach with sweet, sugary snacks, preventing him from eating the food his body really needs. 

Treats are definitely ok to give to horses, but as with anything, use common sense and moderation.

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How to Make a Bran Mash for Your Horse

Feeding a bran mash to hard working horses is a tradition that has been passed down to horseman throughout generations.  When overfed, bran mashes can actually have a damaging effect on your horse, but when given occasionally, they can be a warm and tasty treat.  Bran mashes also act as a laxative, and can be good for horses with digestive problems or those prone to colic.  Because of the sweet taste, a mash can also successfully hide medications.  Be cautious however, as mashes can cause calcium imbalances.  They should never be fed more than twice a week, and should be fed with caution to horses under three.  If you have any concerns about your horse’s diet, speak with your vet before adding anything new.

What you’ll need:

  • 3 lbs bran (either wheat or rice)
  • ¼ cup molasses
  • 1 cup grated carrot
  • 4 cups hot water (approximately)

Slowly combine the water and bran in a large bucket.  Once thoroughly mixed, add the molasses and carrot.  For a different taste, try substituting apple sauce and diced apple for the molasses and carrot.  Then add any supplements, such as flax seed or medications, and allow the mixture to cool before feeding.

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