Horse Care

Tying your horse

Most horse owners routinely tie up their horses, whether during grooming, tacking up, or just to keep the horse secure while they attend to something else. However, if not done correctly, this seemingly simple and everyday practice could be putting you and your horse in a very dangerous situation.

Always tie your horse with a quick release knot. If you aren’t sure how to do this, ask a friend to show you, or check horse care books or websites. Most will have diagrams that you can use to practice. Should your horse spook or pull away, it is imperative that the knot collapse, otherwise your horse will panic at being trapped and could seriously injure himself or others. As he pulls, he’ll tighten the rope making it difficult to get a non-quick release knot undone. Never tie your horse by his bridle. As he pulls to get free he could severely injure his mouth.

Don’t tie to any object that is not secure. Fences are the best option, using the fence post rather than the rail. If your horse pulls, he should not be able to drag anything away with him. Check posts before tying to make sure that they aren’t rotten or inadequately secured into the ground. Wherever possible, keep the rope chest high to avoid it dangling around your horse’s legs and tripping him.

If you are tying your horse to your trailer or using cross-ties remember to always use quick release clasps. These clasps are made to release when met with sudden force. This way, if the horse pulls its head quickly, trying to get free, the clasp will open. They are also easier to release a spooked horse as it just takes a quick pull to get them loose. Check clasps regularly to ensure that they don’t become rusty.

Filed Under: Grooming, Horse Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Grooming, Horse Care, Horse Safety

Caring for Senior Horses

Horses aged 15 and over are generally considered to be equine senior citizens. Although they can continue living healthy, happy, and very active lives, most senior horses do need some amount of special care to ensure that they are comfortable and to prevent problems from developing. Here are some tips on how to care for your aging horse:

Be aware that your horse will be more sensitive to heat and cold. In the summer, be sure he has plenty of shade. In winter, consider blanketing him if he shows signs of being chilled.
Older horses can have more difficulties with their teeth, causing them trouble with chewing and digesting their food. Have his teeth checked regularly, even twice a year if necessary.
Watch your horse for signs of weight loss. When grooming, use your hands on your horse’s body to feel for any changes. A senior horse may have more difficulty extracting the nutrients he needs from his normal diet, so consult with your veterinarian to determine whether he needs additional supplements.
Senior horses often have a weaker immunity than younger horses, causing them to be more prone to skin infections, colds and respiratory problems, insect bites, and infectious disease. Groom your horse regularly to remove unwanted bacteria, use a good insect repellant, and ensure that your horse receives medical attention if he is sick, even if it appears to be a minor issue.
Keep your older horse moving. If you are unable to ride him, try hand-walking or even swimming to get him the exercise he needs. Many idle horses wind up with poor circulation and muscle loss.
If your horse has difficulty chewing roughage, you might want to invest in pelleted food specifically designed for senior horses.

Filed Under: Horse Care Tagged With: Horse Care, senior horses

Take Care of Your Horse’s Teeth

As grazing animals, horses have some unique needs when it comes to their teeth. Meant for grinding down tough plant fibers, and other abrasive materials, a horse’s teeth are constantly growing. Additionally, their upper molars are spaced wider apart than their lower molars. In the wild, this is beneficial because horses graze on grass all day long, which wears down and polishes their teeth quite effectively. It also requires a lot of side to side grinding, which is where the spacing difference is an evolutionary advantage. Domestic horses are not usually solely kept on grass, and instead are fed much less abrasive forage that requires less grinding. This causes the teeth to wear unevenly resulting in sharp points and hooks on the molars. These points will cause harm to your horse by cutting the inside of his mouth, preventing him from eating properly, and making the bit uncomfortable to wear.

Have your horse’s teeth checked yearly to prevent problems from getting out of control. A good time is during your yearly vaccinations. If the teeth aren’t too bad, your veterinarian may use a simple rasp to file down the points. However, some veterinarians prefer to sedate the horse and use an electric power grinder to wear down the points quickly. There is still debate on whether this is a good method of dental care – some feel that it is too easy to wear down the teeth too much, too quickly.

If your horse is dropping his food, salivating excessively, fussing with the bit, or is touchy about having his face and muzzle handled, you will want to be sure to have his teeth checked. If done regularly, having your horse’s teeth floated will be a minor occurrence, and he will live pain free.

Filed Under: Grooming, Horse Care Tagged With: Grooming, Horse Care

What to do if you can’t keep your horse

Although you might believe, as with many others, that owning a horse is a lifelong commitment, you may still find yourself in a situation where keeping your horse is no longer an option. Whether it’s a divorce, unexpected job loss, or increased barn expenses, here are some tips on how to handle this difficult situation.

Stop beating yourself up. Remember, the reason you are agonizing over this decision is precisely because you love your horse and want what is best for him. If you can’t afford to pay his monthly expenses, never mind unexpected vet fees, are you really giving him the best home possible?
Talk to family and friends, and your contacts in the horse community. The best option is always to pass your horse on to someone you know. Ideally you want to avoid having to run an ad in the paper or advertise on the Internet.
Be willing to talk about different options. Leasing can be a great option for cutting expenses. Leases are very flexible, encompassing everything from a one day a week riding time to the leasee taking on all responsibility for caring for the horse. With open dialogue, you might be able to find a way to hang onto ownership of your horse.
When you do find the right person to take your horse, be sure to draw up a contract. Indicate that if the buyer can no longer care for the horse that they have to give you the option of buying him back. If you would like to be able to visit your horse, you might want to include this in the contract as well.
Follow your gut and try not to make any impulse decisions. If the person doesn’t feel right to you, then chances are they aren’t. Move on to the next prospect.

Filed Under: Horse Care Tagged With: Horse Care

Dealing with a Cast Horse

If you’ve ever seen a horse that has cast himself, you’re not likely to forget the sight. Although it doesn’t happen often, this is an emergency situation that is possible for every horse owner to find themselves in. Sometimes a horse will misjudge how much room they have when they lie down or roll near the wall of their stall or a fence. Their legs get trapped and they have no way of pushing themselves away or getting their feet back up from under them.

Should you find yourself in this startling situation, consider your own safety first. If at all possible, don’t try to deal with the horse on your own. If he isn’t thrashing too much, get close to your horse and pull his head away from the wall. This may give him enough room to scramble back to his feet. If not, try pulling the head and tail at the same time. If your horse is panicked and thrashing, try looping a leadshank around the hind area and pull him forward.

Another tactic is to pull the horse’s feet, rolling him over and allowing him the space to get up. If your horse is quiet, you can probably do this by hand but if needed, a lead rope can also be looped around a leg for the same effect.

Be aware that as soon as your horse is able, he will want to scramble to his feet and will likely be nervous, agitated, and may even kick out. Make sure that you think ahead and have a quick escape route in place for when your horse does get free. Once he is up and calm, check him over for any scrapes or cuts, and walk him out for a few minutes to watch for lameness.

Filed Under: Horse Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Horse Care, Horse Safety

Equine Physiotherapy and Chiropractic Healing

Physiotherapy and chiropractic work, although relatively new fields in horse care, are growing in popularity among owners who are looking for new ways to help their horses be comfortable and pain-free. Physiotherapy uses a number of different techniques to help rehabilitate the horse, including stretching, massage, joint and soft tissue mobilization, and hydrotherapy. Treatment is often sought for ligament, tendon and joint injuries, dysplasia of the hip or elbow, osteoarthritis, back pain, and muscle imbalance or gait problems. Varying levels of intervention are available, depending on your horse’s needs. Seemingly healthy horses can also benefit from a physiotherapist, who can conduct a full exam and inform you of any underlying issues you might be unaware of, such as poor saddle fit.

Chiropractic work is different in that equine chiropractors work specifically on adjusting a horse’s spine. In their treatment, chiropractors work on a specific joint in the spine, using their hands to stimulate nerve receptors within the joint. This restores normal movement, and can stop pain and swelling. Horses that show signs of lameness, sore backs, sensitivity to the cinch, and difficulty in maintaining collection or executing lead changes may show improvement following chiropractic sessions.

If you think that your horse could benefit from a session with a physiotherapist or chiropractor, first consult with your veterinarian. When looking for a practitioner of either discipline, be sure they are registered and legally able to practice, and have them consult with your veterinarian prior to working on your horse. If you can’t find someone by word of mouth, try asking for a few referrals. Be aware that any medical treatment can be potentially harmful if done incorrectly, so anyone who handles your horse medically should be well trained and licensed to practice.

Filed Under: Disease and Illness, Horse Care Tagged With: Disease and Illness, Horse Care

Tips to Keep Your Horse from Being Herdbound

Horses are incredibly social creatures, instinctively driven to create strong social bonds with their herd mates. But these healthy relationships can turn into difficulties for you if your horse begins to value the company of his buddies over you. Herdbound horses are dangerous to themselves and their handlers because horses with severe issues will do anything to get back to their herd, including running away with a rider, kicking out, jumping fences, and breaking ties. They can be difficult to ride and work with, and a nightmare for the farrier to handle. Here are some tips to keep your horse from getting too attached to his herd.

Remove him from the herd on a regular basis, either to ride or simply to handle. Ride your horse alone in a riding ring, if you are uncomfortable taking him on a trail by yourself, or give him a good grooming session away from his buddies.
When on the trail with a group, occasionally break away from the group, either turning around or taking a different trail, and then hook up with them again. This will help to reassure your horse that he will see his friends again. Don’t let him race up to the group when they are in sight; instead keep him calm and walking, turning him around if he gets too upset.
While riding with a group, keep your horse’s mind occupied by actively working with him. Ask him to move back and forth on the trail, turn around, or move backwards. Keep his mind attuned to you.
Be assertive with your horse and remember that you are his leader. Don’t always let him make the decisions, especially when you are riding with other horses, or when you are letting him go in the pasture.
Develop a strong relationship with your horse, so that he knows he can trust you. If you are strong and confident, he will have more trust in your leadership and be more prepared to follow you into what, in his mind, may be dangerous situations.

Filed Under: Horse Behavior, Horse Care Tagged With: herdbound, Horse Behavior, Horse Care

Introducing a New Horse to the Herd

Although some horse owners simply turn a new horse out with the herd and let the horses themselves work out their hierarchy, there are some things you can do when introducing a new horse to the herd that will help protect everyone’s safety. If at all possible, turn the new horse out in an adjacent field or paddock so that the horses can all get comfortable with one another while safely on either side of a fence. Once they have spent a few days checking each other out, you can try putting them out together. If you have one particularly dominant or aggressive horse in your herd, you might wish to remove him and let the new horse settle in with the others. When you release the dominant horse back into the herd, he’ll be the one entering a now relatively stable herd hierarchy. This will hopefully minimize his need to pick on the newcomer. You might also want to try taking the horses out on a ride together, where they can get to know each other in a controlled environment.

Turning the horses out together will carry some risk no matter how much you have prepared, so be sure that someone is on hand to deal with any situations that might arise. If the horses have enough room to move around, there should be few problems, as they will be able to keep moving if needed. However, if a horse gets cornered and can’t get away from a more aggressive herd mate, you may need to get involved. Carry a lunge whip with you just in case.

Try turning them out when they are hungry and hopefully they will be too interested in eating to be bothered with challenging one another. If possible, pull the hind shoes of horses that are spending time together in the field – this will prevent serious injury from misplaced kicks.

Filed Under: Horse Behavior, Horse Care Tagged With: Horse Behavior, Horse Care, Horse Training

Dealing With a Horse that’s Hard to Catch

There’s nothing quite as frustrating as standing in a large pasture with a halter and lead rope in your hand, watching your horse run away from you to the farthest corner. If your horse is difficult to catch, try the following training tips:

Visit the pasture often for brief visits, without approaching your horse. This will teach your horse that your presence does not necessarily mean work. Don’t approach your horse or make eye contact, and if your horse approaches you, let him sniff you, but walk away before he walks away from you. Remember – you are the decision maker.
Give your horse special treatment in the field, and don’t always take him out to be worked. A grooming session or massage, depending on what your horse likes, will be a nice treat and can be done in the field.
If your horse is wary of you approaching with a halter, then get in the habit of carrying the halter over your shoulder and make frequent visits to the field without trying to catch your horse. When he is ready, you can approach him with the halter without attempting to catch him. Slipping the halter over his head, leading him around for a moment, and then letting him go can also be useful in teaching him that a halter does not necessarily mean work.
Try leaving a breakaway halter on your horse while he is in the field. This may make it easier for you, rather than trying to get the halter over his head. A breakaway halter will snap should your horse become entangled, so if you do decide to let him loose in the field with a halter, definitely make sure it’s the breakaway kind. If you do have to halter your horse in the field, loop the lead rope around his neck first so that if he starts to move away you can guide him to a stop.
Be cautious of bribing your horse with treats. Feeding treats with other loose horses present can be very dangerous, as they will often crowd you as they anxiously try to get their share of the goodies. It is much better to train your horse properly than to rely on treats for good behavior.

Filed Under: Horse Behavior, Horse Care Tagged With: Horse Behavior, Horse Care

How to Buy and Store Hay

For many new horse owners, there is potentially nothing that puts you out of your depth more than feeding decisions. Buying and storing hay is no exception, and has the added difficulty that it can be a major investment, especially when buying large amounts to last the winter months. To reduce the chance of mold infestation that could cost you your entire investment and inflict serious harm to your horse, you will need to ensure that your hay is dry and mold free from start to finish.

When you are considering where to purchase your hay, be sure to inspect the quality of their products prior to laying down a lot of money. Take an experienced horse person with you who can help identify the signs of mold – bales that are dusty, discolored, darker than usual, or even white. Feeding dusty hay to a horse can cause serious problems, so be sure that the hay you are purchasing is dust-free. Talk to the seller and confirm that the hay was cut when it was dry. Physically check the bales to see if they seem dusty, damp, or if you can see any signs of discoloration or mold. You might want to smell the bale as well – good hay should smell sweet and look clean.

Do not have your hay delivered in wet weather – even if the hay is covered with tarps it will likely get wet as you transport it from the truck to the storage area. Also make sure your storage area or hay loft is clean and dry. If stacking on the ground, put your hay on pallets first. Try to avoid stacking hay against barn walls that may become wet with condensation. If you live in a particularly damp climate, or have a storage area that is difficult to keep dry, you might consider covering your stacked hay with a tarp, and using dehumidifiers and fans.

Filed Under: Hay, Horse Care Tagged With: Boarding, Hay, Horse Care

How to Create a First Aid Kit for Horses

If your horse was injured in an emergency at the barn, would you have the essentials to handle the situation? Here’s a look at essential items for your first aid kit:

Key information about your horse. Record when he’s had his last shots, what he normally eats, and his normal resting pulse, respiration, and temperature.
Thermometer. Practice using it before your horse needs it, and make sure there is a clip and string so that it doesn’t disappear.
Scissors. Be sure to use rounded edge scissors, and keep them clean and sharp. In addition to cutting bandages and dressings, they can be useful for trimming the hair around wounds.
Antibacterial ointment. There are many good creams on the market that can be used for small cuts and scrapes.
Antibacterial or iodine wash. Hibitaine or Betadine are good options for washing cuts and scrapes and keeping them clean.
Gauze padding for wound dressing.
VetWrap. These bandages self-stick and are excellent for holding dressings and poultices into place.
Epsom salts. These are often used for soaking, in particular with hoof abscesses.
Duct tape. This is a good item to have on hand for stable emergencies, and can even be wrapped around a horse’s hoof should you lose a shoe. It can also be used to protect a dressing on your horse’s foot when healing from a hoof abscess.
Bute. If possible, it is a good idea to have some of this anti-inflammatory drug on hand for easing pain that your horse might be in. As with any prescription drug, use it only at the direction of your veterinarian and be aware that it can cause damage to internal organs and make some emergency situations worse.
Clean sponge and bucket for washing wounds and soaking feet.

Filed Under: Horse Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Horse Care, Horse Safety

How to Bathe a Horse

Ready to give your horse a summer bath? Try the following tips for a smooth and easy experience.

Have a friend hold onto your horse, as opposed to tying him up, especially if this is a new experience for him.
Allow your horse to become comfortable with the sound of the hose before using it on him. Use a very gentle spray and start with his feet and legs to get him comfortable before moving up to the body. Always aim the spray away from your horse’s head.
Once the neck and body are wet, you can use a brush or grooming mitt to work the shampoo into a lather. Make sure to generate lots of suds and don’t be afraid to rinse and lather again if your horse is really dirty.
When rinsing, start at the neck and work your way down the body and legs. Be sure to keep rinsing until the soap disappears because any that is left may cause his skin to dry out and his coat to dull.
Use a sweat scraper to remove excess water before towel drying. You might wish to walk your horse dry at this point or throw a light cooler on him and put him back in his stall.
When bathing tails, remember to hold the tail to the side of the horse. Use a bucket to soak the tail, shampoo, and finally rinse. You might wish to use a conditioning product to make the tail easier to comb out afterwards. Be cautious of being kicked, or smacked with a wet tail.
Wash your horse’s head and face carefully with a damp sponge to avoid running soap and water into his eyes.

Filed Under: Grooming, Horse Care Tagged With: Horse Care

Should Your Horse go Barefoot?

Many horse owners take shoeing their horse for granted, but in reality many horses can go barefoot with little difficulty. Here are some questions to consider if you are looking at making the jump from shoes to barefoot:

What type of feet does your horse have? Some breeds, such as Arabs, have exceptionally strong feet and do very well without shoes. However, you will need to discuss with your farrier or vet as to whether your horse is sound enough to go barefoot. Some conditions, such as founder, require corrective and therapeutic shoeing to keep the horse comfortable.
What type of riding do you do? If your horse is primarily worked on soft ground and you don’t show, going barefoot is probably just fine. However, if you are doing extensive trail riding on hard packed or rocky ground, your horse will need the additional protection of shoes.
Does your farrier have experience with barefoot trims? A barefoot trim needs to be handled just as carefully as putting shoes on a horse – it is not simply pulling the shoes and trimming the horse’s hoof. Ensure that your farrier is comfortable working with barefoot horses, and make sure to keep to a very regular trimming schedule.
Are you willing to listen to your horse? Above all, it will be your horse who dictates whether barefoot is a viable option. You will need to be tuned into your horse’s behaviour, watching for touchy walking, lameness, and hooves that are chipped or cracked. Some horses are more prone to abscesses when they go without shoes.
Are you considering barefoot to save money? This cannot be a financial decision. Often a barefoot trim is just as expensive as having your horse shod, and of course having a lame, sore horse will not bring savings to your pocketbook.

Filed Under: Hoof Care, Horse Care Tagged With: barefoot horse, Hoof Care, Horseshoes

Preparing Your Horse for the Clippers

If you want to use clippers to prepare your horse for a show or to get his winter coat under control, you’ll need to make sure he is thoroughly prepared for what is, to most horses, a very scary experience. As with any training, take your time and don’t rush the process - it may take several days before you can actually clip your horse. Start by turning the clippers on in the barn, but not next to your horse, so that he can get comfortable with the sound. Gradually bring the clippers closer and watch how he reacts. Keep the clippers out of sight, and feed him some treats. Once he appears to be taking no notice of the sound, you can begin to bring the clippers in sight of the horse. As he accepts this, you can begin to rub him with the vibrating clippers, although not actually clipping at this point. When he is calm and comfortable, you can slowly start to clip. Most horses are simply frightened of the noise and desensitization to the sound quickly removes any fear. However, horses that are ticklish and find the actual clipping to be unpleasant are harder to work with. If at any time you feel threatened by your horse’s reactions, contact an experienced horse-person or trainer for assistance. Remember that pushing the horse into a state of panic will not cause him to learn anything except that he truly has something to fear. Also be aware that if your horse panics and you turn the clippers off, he will have learned that by panicking and threatening you, the clippers disappear. Take it slow and end each session on a positive note and you’ll find that the entire process will go much more smoothly.

Filed Under: Grooming, Horse Care Tagged With: clippers, Hoof Care, Horse Care

How to Treat a Hoof Abscess

If you find your horse suddenly and acutely lame, and he can barely put pressure on the affected foot, it’s very possible he has a hoof abscess. The first thing to do in a case like this is to call your vet or farrier. After using hoof-testers to locate the abscess, they will cut open the infected pocket and drain it, giving your horse instant relief. Keeping the foot clean is vital for the healing process. First soak your horse’s foot in Epsom salts and warm water at least once per day and then, placing a gauze pad soaked in iodine and table sugar on the infected area, wrap with a VetWrap bandage. To keep the horse’s foot dry, put a plastic bag over the hoof and wrap with duct tape. This will keep the foot dry even in the wet bedding of the stall, and the duct tape will keep your horse from ripping it open. Alternatively, you could use a poultice boot.

You will need to keep up this routine until your horse’s hoof stops smelling of infection, usually about 5 days or so. Keep your horse in a clean, dry stall during this recovery time. If your vet or farrier can’t find the abcess, you’ll need to have x-rays taken. Once the possibility of a fracture has been ruled out, poultice the hoof until the abscess drains on its own, either on the sole or the coronet. You’ll notice immediate improvement when it bursts, as your horse will immediately begin to put pressure on the infected hoof. Before finishing with the bandaging, you may wish to have your vet or farrier back for a follow-up visit to ensure that everything has healed properly.

Filed Under: Disease and Illness, Hoof Care, Horse Care Tagged With: Farrier, hoof abscess, Hoof Care, Horse Care

What to do When Your Horse has Thrush

If you’ve noticed a foul, strong odor accompanied by a black, oozing discharge when picking out your horse’s feet, it’s likely he has a case of thrush. Occurring most often through the rainy winter months, thrush is the result of a bacterial infection that can develop if your horse is frequently standing on wet ground. Additionally, horses can develop thrush from standing in the wet bedding of their stalls. These moist environments are excellent breeding grounds for the anaerobic bacteria that infect your horse’s feet as they become packed with the contaminated mud or bedding. Thrush typically affects the horse’s frog and can lead to lameness, infection, and even serious deformities. Luckily, it is not only easy to catch in the early stages but also responds well to treatment.

Pick out the infected feet thoroughly, then wash with warm water and an iodine scrub and pat dry. One of the easiest and cheapest methods to deal with thrush is to simply combine an iodine solution with table sugar to form a syrupy paste. Apply this directly to the horse’s foot, especially in the grooves along the frog, and move your horse to a clean and dry environment. You will need to keep up this routine daily, for about 5 – 10 days, until the infection is gone. In some cases, before applying the medication, you may wish to have your vet or farrier look at your horse and trim back the frog so that no bacteria are trapped inside.

As with most things, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Keeping your horse’s environment as clean and dry as possible and picking his feet out everyday are excellent ways to prevent a thrush infection. Since the bacteria cannot survive in oxygenated environments, picking your horse’s feet every day is an excellent way to prevent an outbreak.

Filed Under: Disease and Illness, Hoof Care, Horse Care Tagged With: disease, Farrier, Hoof Care, Horse Care, thrush

What to do When Your Horse Loses a Shoe

Having secure shoes is probably the most important thing for a horse. Riding a horse who is missing a shoe can lead to major health problems for the horse. There are many different circumstances under which a horse can lose his shoe. If you handle the situation properly you can dramatically improve your horse's chances for a full recovery. If you see that your horse has lost a shoe while riding, get off your horse immediately. Do not attempt to ride your horse again until he has a real shoe on. Look around the area to see if you can find the missing horse shoe. Discarded horse shoes contain nails that can cause problems if left alone. Check your horse's foot to make sure the shoe has come completely off. Often times, when a shoe has thrown pieces of the hoof may come off as well which is a major health hazard for the horse. If you see that the hoof is bleeding, get help from a professional right away. If your horse's hoof looks ok and is not bleeding, check carefully for any remaining nails. Nails in the hoof can impair the horse's ability to walk. Attempt to walk your horse to the stable and check over the hoof more carefully once you arrive. Hoof boots are very useful in this situation, if you have one - you're in luck. If you do not have a hoof boot, dress the hoof with a gamgee and wrap tightly with vet wrap, then wrap tightly with duct tape. Now you can safely put the horse back in his stall. Try to have a farrier reshoe the horse as soon as possible.

Filed Under: Horse Care, Horse Safety, Horseshoes Tagged With: Farrier, Hoof Care, horseshoe

How to Properly Groom a Horse

As a horse owner or caretaker, you must be sure to properly groom your horse. Horses need to be groomed often to keep clean, most importantly, but also to promote a sleek and shiny coat. Grooming also gives the owner a perfect chance to develop a bond with their horse. The following is a brief overview of how you can make sure you are properly grooming your horse. [Read more...]

Filed Under: Grooming, Horse Care Tagged With: Grooming, Horse Care, horse grooming