Cold Shoeing vs. Hot Shoeing

If you’ve ever held a horse while it is being shod, you’ve probably experienced the giant cloud of pungent smoke that develops when a farrier places a hot shoe against the sole of a horse’s hoof. But is this rather uncomfortable looking process necessary for your horse to have a good fit in his shoes?

When a farrier refers to hot or cold shaping, they are meaning the act of actually hammering the shoe into shape to fit on your horse’s hoof. Hot shaping tends to be much easier for the farrier – you can imagine that shaping cold iron would take quite a bit longer. Hot shoeing, however, refers to using a hot shoe to mark the sole of the hoof and to indicate to the farrier whether the shoe is the right fit. If there are still high points on the hoof to be filed down, these will show once the hot shoe has been placed on the hoof. This helps the farrier make the shoe a better fit for your horse.

Cold shoeing omits this step and instead fits the shoe to your horse, and then works with the hoof and shoe together to bring them into the right balance. This type of shoeing can provide your horse with just as good a fit as hot shoeing, and takes just as much, if not more, farrier skill to do it correctly. A farrier who uses the cold shoeing process should not be discounted. In fact, some horses cannot tolerate hot shoeing, and therefore must rely on the cold shoeing techniques. As with anything, it is the farrier’s skill that determines how well the shoes fit the horse, not the technique used. Some farriers will admit to using the hot shoeing technique because they are lazy and don’t want to pound cold iron for long periods of time, however be wary of any farrier who attempts to put a red hot horseshoe on your horse’s hoof – this can cause serious damage to the hoof wall and should never be done.

Therapeutic Horseshoeing

In recent years, the art of therapeutic and corrective shoeing has come a long way, and now many lame horses can be given new pain-free lives, and can even resume work. Depending on the situation, there are many types of shoes to help your horse – here are just a few:

  • Heart-Bar Shoes. These shoes circle the entire hoof and also line up with the frog to provide added support. Traditionally used with foundered horses, heart-bars can help the frog to provide weight-bearing support. These shoes typically require an x-ray so the farrier can properly line up the shoe to provide the correct support.
  • Egg Bar Shoes. These oval shoes provide extra support to your horse’s feet, especially in the heel area. Useful for navicular disease and underrun heels, these shoes are not quite as common as heart-bars.
  • Natural Balance Shoes. Although made of a somewhat softer aluminum alloy, Natural Balance shoes are a lightweight choice that mimic your horse’s natural foundation. Allowing for a more natural breakover and better sole support, these can be a great choice for any horse, including those that are lame.
  • Hoof Pads. Although there is heated debate around the merits and drawbacks to using hoof pads, they are generally considered useful in certain situations. Particularly with foundered horses, a properly set pad can provide the frog support needed to make the horse more comfortable. Before using the pad, the hoof is always packed with material – many farriers use the same malleable plastic that dentists use for making moulds of your teeth. Once the packing and pad are in place, the farrier will nail on the horseshoe.

Remember that special shoes do not magically heal your horse, and if improperly used can actually do even further damage. Also be aware that with most of these different types of special shoes, great care must be taken to clean the hooves daily. Dirt and manure can easily build up in these shoes, which cover a large part of the horse’s foot. Bell boots are a good option as well, since there is a greater chance for your horse to catch his hind foot on the steel of the front shoe.


Dealing with Club Foot in Horses

A club foot in horses is identified by a severely dished toe and a heel that is much too high. In severe cases, it looks almost as though the horse is standing on stilts. Club foot is thought to be a genetic problem, and is mostly seen in Arabian and Morgan horses. Although severe cases are easy to tell at a glance and typically prevent the horse from being ridden, more mild cases can be overlooked.

How can you tell if your horse has a club foot? Typically the horse, when grazing, will stand with the club foot back and extend the normal foot. They often also lead with the normal foot and stumble on the club foot. Measuring the angle of the hoof to the ground can be useful as well, as a club foot will have an angle of more than 60 degrees. The heel on a club foot will be higher than the normal foot, and the hoof will also be narrower and have a smaller frog. Additionally, the shoulder of the normal side of the horse will be rounded, muscular and normal looking, while the shoulder of the club foot will appear to be sloping.

It is generally understood that a club foot can form when a horse is imbalanced, forming on the short side of the horse as a compensation. Therapeutic shoeing, often with pads to assist with the balance issue, can lead to miraculous results, making the horse more comfortable and sound. In very severe cases, surgery may be necessary. Because of the genetic implications, no horse with a club foot should ever be bred.

Picking Your Horse’s Feet

Regular cleaning and hoof picking is vital to the overall health of your horse’s feet.  They should be picked out before and after every ride to prevent stone bruises and discomfort, and always carry a hoof pick with you on your rides in case your horse picks up an uncomfortable stone.  For safe and easy hoof picking, try the following routine:

  • Make sure your horse is standing quietly, and tie him up if he has a tendency to wander off.
  • Stand on the left side first, facing the horse’s tail, and run your hands gently but firmly down his neck, shoulder and legs.
  • Be sure that you are in a position to have good balance and free movement.  If your horse kicks or suddenly drops his foot, you will need to be able to get out of the way.
  • Give him your command for lifting his foot.  This can be anything as long as you use it constantly.
  • If your horse does not pick up his foot on the first command, squeeze the fetlock and give the command again.  Most horses will respond to this but if he is being difficult, you might ask him to shift his weight over and pick up the foot as he moves his weight to the other foot.  If your horse normally lifts his foot without difficulty but is now having a hard time with it, you will want to check for lameness.
  • Support the hoof with one hand and use the pick in the other to gently clean the hoof of dirt and debris.  If your horse tries to drop his foot, flex the toe backward towards his elbow.  Stop the pressure as soon as he stops trying to drop his foot.
  • Always use the hoof pick in a downward motion to avoid damaging the frog or heel.
  • When you are done, gently return his foot to the ground.

Why is My Horse Throwing His Shoes?

A horse who continually turns up with a thrown shoe can be incredibly frustrating for the horse owner and the farrier.  Not only is it expensive to constantly replace pulled shoes, but it also impacts on your ability to ride and exercise your horse.  It may be easy to blame the farrier for lost shoes, but there are many factors that could be causing the problem:

  • Poor hoof health.  A strong hoof wall is needed for shoes to be nailed on securely.  It is the hoof wall that holds the nails in place and, if it is compromised, the nails can easily be pulled out, thereby losing the shoe.
  • Lack of hoof growth.  A healthy horse has a good rate of hoof growth, meaning there is always new hoof wall to nail the shoes to.  Some horses who grow slowly have difficulty keeping shoes on as the hoof wall does not regenerate quickly enough to mend the damage made by the nails.
  • Improper gait.  Horses who “forge” have a tendency to clip their front feet with their back as they are moving out.  As the hind foot reaches forward and hits the front foot, it can actually step on the shoe and pull it off.  If you suspect this is the case with your horse, listen for the clicking noise caused when the hind foot hits the shoe on the front.  Improving the horse’s breakover on the front feet will usually help this issue, so your farrier will likely roll the toe of the front foot and square off the toe of the hind foot.
  • Poor footing.  Horses will sometimes pull their shoes off if they slip or scramble on rough ground.  As their normal gait changes, the front foot stays on the ground for too long as the back foot comes forward and catches the shoe.  This often happens in muddy footing, which should be avoided where possible.

If your horse has a tendency to throw shoes, try keeping a pair of hoof boots on hand for emergencies and work with your farrier to identify the cause of your horse’s lost shoes.

Are Hoof Boots Right for My Horse?

Although they are becoming more commonplace, hoof boots are often not immediately thought of as a necessary item for your horse.  And yet, they can easily save a lot of headaches and might even be a viable alternative to shoeing your horse!

Many horse owners who prefer to keep their horses barefoot find that using boots while trail riding gives their horses the protection of shoes without having to damage the horse’s natural foot with nails.  The boots are put on just before the ride and taken off immediately afterwards, and act almost as sneakers for the horse.  They provide cushioning and protection and also prevent the hooves from chipping and breaking on hard ground.

A second important reason to have a set of hoof boots on hand is for emergency situations.  A thrown shoe can be a real problem for many horse owners, especially if your farrier isn’t immediately available.  A boot can be used until your farrier can replace the shoe, and you and your horse can enjoy a ride in the meantime.  Additionally, boots are excellent when a poultice is required and can be much easier to use than applying plastic bags and duct tape to protect the bandaging.

When purchasing a set of boots, it is important to measure your horse’s feet to ensure accurate sizing.  As with any new equipment, slowly get your horse used to them and be patient if he doesn’t accept them immediately.  Once you are able to actually put them on your horse, leave them on only for short periods of time initially, and check his feet for any rub marks that may indicate a poor fit.  Boots should not typically be used over shoes, and of course are not a substitute for regular trimming.

Puncture Wounds to the Hoof

Any time when the hoof structure is compromised, there is potential for a dangerous, even life-threatening, situation for your horse.  Puncture wounds to the hoof are particularly devastating and require immediate attention.  Most hoof punctures occur through the sole and are usually caused by nails, either during the shoeing process or picked up on the property.  Punctures can also be caused by glass, needles, and even sharp pieces of wood or rock.

Punctures to the frog or the back half of the sole are far more serious than those at the front of the hoof.  Wounds to the heel area can cause damage and infection to the navicular bursa and bone, and can also cause damage to the deep digital flexor tendon in your horse’s leg.  These types of wounds should be considered an emergency and your vet called immediately.

The first thing to do is remove the foreign object so that the horse does not continue stepping on it, and clearly mark the wound so that it can be easily found later.  If you cannot remove the object, or if the wound is deep, do not delay in calling your veterinarian.  If, however, you are satisfied that the wound is relatively superficial, you can clean the wound and hoof and apply a poultice.  Ensure that your horse is up to date on his tetanus vaccinations, and if he is not, have your vet administer an immediate tetanus anti-toxin injection.

If your horse shows lameness over the next 24 to 48 hours, it is likely that the wound is either infected or has caused damage to the structure of the hoof.  At this point in time, call your veterinarian for further treatment and bandage the hoof to keep it clean and dry while waiting for his arrival.  In most cases, your vet will drain the wound and possibly use a poultice to continue drawing out the infection.  In some cases the wound will also be packed to keep it clean.  In very serious infections, part of the hoof may actually need to be cut away, a special shoe applied, and clean dressings used.  These types of injuries take a relatively long time to heal and require patient doctoring.

Standing for the Farrier

A horse that doesn’t stand quietly for the farrier is a danger both to himself and to those working around him.  Try these steps to make your horse more comfortable during a farrier visit:

  1. If your horse doesn’t like being separated from his buddies, try having a quiet horse close by that your horse can bond with while the farrier works.  Even better, work on slowly separating your horse from his herd for increasing amounts of time every day.
  2. Practice with your horse standing quietly.  It will take him a while to have the patience to stand for the 45 minutes or so that your farrier will need to work on him.  Start off slow and work your way up, always staying within the time limit your horse can handle.
  3. Try lifting your horse’s feet and holding them for a few seconds.  Gradually increase this amount of time.
  4. If you feel you are experienced enough, you may also wish to hold your horse’s foot in both farrier positions – up between your legs and straight forward for rasping – for very brief periods of time.  If your horse is comfortable with this, you can gradually increase the amount of time you ask him to stand unbalanced.
  5. If you can get your hands on a dull rasp, you might want to practice running the rasp lightly over your horse’s hoof, getting him used to both the feel and the sound.
  6. When your horse is standing quietly, try tapping lightly on his feet with a small hammer to replicate the feeling of having horseshoes nailed on.
  7. If your horse isn’t too greedy, you might want to have some treats handy to keep him interested in you while the farrier works.

With the proper preparation, farrier visits don’t have to be scary – for you or your horse!

What to do When Your Horse Loses a Shoe

Having secure shoes is probably the most important thing for a horse. Riding a horse who is missing a shoe can lead to major health problems for the horse. There are many different circumstances under which a horse can lose his shoe. If you handle the situation properly you can dramatically improve your horse's chances for a full recovery. If you see that your horse has lost a shoe while riding, get off your horse immediately. Do not attempt to ride your horse again until he has a real shoe on. Look around the area to see if you can find the missing horse shoe. Discarded horse shoes contain nails that can cause problems if left alone. Check your horse's foot to make sure the shoe has come completely off. Often times, when a shoe has thrown pieces of the hoof may come off as well which is a major health hazard for the horse. If you see that the hoof is bleeding, get help from a professional right away. If your horse's hoof looks ok and is not bleeding, check carefully for any remaining nails. Nails in the hoof can impair the horse's ability to walk. Attempt to walk your horse to the stable and check over the hoof more carefully once you arrive. Hoof boots are very useful in this situation, if you have one -  you're in luck. If you do not have a hoof boot, dress the hoof with a gamgee and wrap tightly with vet wrap, then wrap tightly with duct tape. Now you can safely put the horse back in his stall. Try to have a farrier reshoe the horse as soon as possible.