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Cold Shoeing vs. Hot Shoeing

If you’ve ever held a horse while it is being shod, you’ve probably experienced the giant cloud of pungent smoke that develops when a farrier places a hot shoe against the sole of a horse’s hoof. But is this rather uncomfortable looking process necessary for your horse to have a good fit in his shoes?

When a farrier refers to hot or cold shaping, they are meaning the act of actually hammering the shoe into shape to fit on your horse’s hoof. Hot shaping tends to be much easier for the farrier – you can imagine that shaping cold iron would take quite a bit longer. Hot shoeing, however, refers to using a hot shoe to mark the sole of the hoof and to indicate to the farrier whether the shoe is the right fit. If there are still high points on the hoof to be filed down, these will show once the hot shoe has been placed on the hoof. This helps the farrier make the shoe a better fit for your horse.

Cold shoeing omits this step and instead fits the shoe to your horse, and then works with the hoof and shoe together to bring them into the right balance. This type of shoeing can provide your horse with just as good a fit as hot shoeing, and takes just as much, if not more, farrier skill to do it correctly. A farrier who uses the cold shoeing process should not be discounted. In fact, some horses cannot tolerate hot shoeing, and therefore must rely on the cold shoeing techniques. As with anything, it is the farrier’s skill that determines how well the shoes fit the horse, not the technique used. Some farriers will admit to using the hot shoeing technique because they are lazy and don’t want to pound cold iron for long periods of time, however be wary of any farrier who attempts to put a red hot horseshoe on your horse’s hoof – this can cause serious damage to the hoof wall and should never be done.

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Therapeutic Horseshoeing

In recent years, the art of therapeutic and corrective shoeing has come a long way, and now many lame horses can be given new pain-free lives, and can even resume work. Depending on the situation, there are many types of shoes to help your horse – here are just a few:

  • Heart-Bar Shoes. These shoes circle the entire hoof and also line up with the frog to provide added support. Traditionally used with foundered horses, heart-bars can help the frog to provide weight-bearing support. These shoes typically require an x-ray so the farrier can properly line up the shoe to provide the correct support.
  • Egg Bar Shoes. These oval shoes provide extra support to your horse’s feet, especially in the heel area. Useful for navicular disease and underrun heels, these shoes are not quite as common as heart-bars.
  • Natural Balance Shoes. Although made of a somewhat softer aluminum alloy, Natural Balance shoes are a lightweight choice that mimic your horse’s natural foundation. Allowing for a more natural breakover and better sole support, these can be a great choice for any horse, including those that are lame.
  • Hoof Pads. Although there is heated debate around the merits and drawbacks to using hoof pads, they are generally considered useful in certain situations. Particularly with foundered horses, a properly set pad can provide the frog support needed to make the horse more comfortable. Before using the pad, the hoof is always packed with material – many farriers use the same malleable plastic that dentists use for making moulds of your teeth. Once the packing and pad are in place, the farrier will nail on the horseshoe.

Remember that special shoes do not magically heal your horse, and if improperly used can actually do even further damage. Also be aware that with most of these different types of special shoes, great care must be taken to clean the hooves daily. Dirt and manure can easily build up in these shoes, which cover a large part of the horse’s foot. Bell boots are a good option as well, since there is a greater chance for your horse to catch his hind foot on the steel of the front shoe.


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How to Find a Good Farrier

Since good shoeing and trimming are vital to keeping your horse sound and healthy it is very important that when the time comes to have your horse trimmed and shod, you trust the person who is working on his feet.  Here are some tips to finding a good and reliable farrier:

  • Word of mouth.  Other horse people will clearly tell you who they like, who they don’t, and why.  These are the people who will let you know if a farrier shows up late for appointments or takes weeks to return a phone call.  Be sure to talk to other horse owners who have similar needs as your own, as someone who is showing their horses competitively will have different requirements from their farrier as someone doing casual trail riding.  Other good people to check with are your veterinarian, who will likely have a few people that they are comfortable working with, and also experienced stable managers, trainers, and breeders in your area.
  • Look at advertisements.  Some farriers, if they are relatively new or are trying to increase their clientele, will advertise in barns, feed and tack stores, equine publications, or even on the Internet.  Be aware that although this can be a good place to start in collecting names, you will still need to research them to make sure they are a competent farrier.
  • Check their certification.  Many farriers now choose to become members of the American Farrier’s Association, so that they can be certified in what they do.  The most extensive certification is the Journeyman Certified Farrier, who must have two years of direct experience and pass a comprehensive exam, both written and practical.
  • Ask for references.  A good farrier should have a few clients who are willing to say good things about them.
  • Interview your potential candidates.  Trusting your horse to a stranger’s hands is never easy.  Try to get to know your farrier first by talking to them on the phone, and even having them out to meet your horse (at your expense of course).  Discuss with them your horse’s special needs, and find out whether they have experience dealing with these issues.

Finding a farrier is not much different than finding a good doctor.  With a little research and networking, you’ll be sure that your horse is in good hands!

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Dealing with Club Foot in Horses

A club foot in horses is identified by a severely dished toe and a heel that is much too high. In severe cases, it looks almost as though the horse is standing on stilts. Club foot is thought to be a genetic problem, and is mostly seen in Arabian and Morgan horses. Although severe cases are easy to tell at a glance and typically prevent the horse from being ridden, more mild cases can be overlooked.

How can you tell if your horse has a club foot? Typically the horse, when grazing, will stand with the club foot back and extend the normal foot. They often also lead with the normal foot and stumble on the club foot. Measuring the angle of the hoof to the ground can be useful as well, as a club foot will have an angle of more than 60 degrees. The heel on a club foot will be higher than the normal foot, and the hoof will also be narrower and have a smaller frog. Additionally, the shoulder of the normal side of the horse will be rounded, muscular and normal looking, while the shoulder of the club foot will appear to be sloping.

It is generally understood that a club foot can form when a horse is imbalanced, forming on the short side of the horse as a compensation. Therapeutic shoeing, often with pads to assist with the balance issue, can lead to miraculous results, making the horse more comfortable and sound. In very severe cases, surgery may be necessary. Because of the genetic implications, no horse with a club foot should ever be bred.

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Picking Your Horse’s Feet

Regular cleaning and hoof picking is vital to the overall health of your horse’s feet.  They should be picked out before and after every ride to prevent stone bruises and discomfort, and always carry a hoof pick with you on your rides in case your horse picks up an uncomfortable stone.  For safe and easy hoof picking, try the following routine:

  • Make sure your horse is standing quietly, and tie him up if he has a tendency to wander off.
  • Stand on the left side first, facing the horse’s tail, and run your hands gently but firmly down his neck, shoulder and legs.
  • Be sure that you are in a position to have good balance and free movement.  If your horse kicks or suddenly drops his foot, you will need to be able to get out of the way.
  • Give him your command for lifting his foot.  This can be anything as long as you use it constantly.
  • If your horse does not pick up his foot on the first command, squeeze the fetlock and give the command again.  Most horses will respond to this but if he is being difficult, you might ask him to shift his weight over and pick up the foot as he moves his weight to the other foot.  If your horse normally lifts his foot without difficulty but is now having a hard time with it, you will want to check for lameness.
  • Support the hoof with one hand and use the pick in the other to gently clean the hoof of dirt and debris.  If your horse tries to drop his foot, flex the toe backward towards his elbow.  Stop the pressure as soon as he stops trying to drop his foot.
  • Always use the hoof pick in a downward motion to avoid damaging the frog or heel.
  • When you are done, gently return his foot to the ground.
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Why is My Horse Throwing His Shoes?

A horse who continually turns up with a thrown shoe can be incredibly frustrating for the horse owner and the farrier.  Not only is it expensive to constantly replace pulled shoes, but it also impacts on your ability to ride and exercise your horse.  It may be easy to blame the farrier for lost shoes, but there are many factors that could be causing the problem:

  • Poor hoof health.  A strong hoof wall is needed for shoes to be nailed on securely.  It is the hoof wall that holds the nails in place and, if it is compromised, the nails can easily be pulled out, thereby losing the shoe.
  • Lack of hoof growth.  A healthy horse has a good rate of hoof growth, meaning there is always new hoof wall to nail the shoes to.  Some horses who grow slowly have difficulty keeping shoes on as the hoof wall does not regenerate quickly enough to mend the damage made by the nails.
  • Improper gait.  Horses who “forge” have a tendency to clip their front feet with their back as they are moving out.  As the hind foot reaches forward and hits the front foot, it can actually step on the shoe and pull it off.  If you suspect this is the case with your horse, listen for the clicking noise caused when the hind foot hits the shoe on the front.  Improving the horse’s breakover on the front feet will usually help this issue, so your farrier will likely roll the toe of the front foot and square off the toe of the hind foot.
  • Poor footing.  Horses will sometimes pull their shoes off if they slip or scramble on rough ground.  As their normal gait changes, the front foot stays on the ground for too long as the back foot comes forward and catches the shoe.  This often happens in muddy footing, which should be avoided where possible.

If your horse has a tendency to throw shoes, try keeping a pair of hoof boots on hand for emergencies and work with your farrier to identify the cause of your horse’s lost shoes.

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Are Hoof Boots Right for My Horse?

Although they are becoming more commonplace, hoof boots are often not immediately thought of as a necessary item for your horse.  And yet, they can easily save a lot of headaches and might even be a viable alternative to shoeing your horse!

Many horse owners who prefer to keep their horses barefoot find that using boots while trail riding gives their horses the protection of shoes without having to damage the horse’s natural foot with nails.  The boots are put on just before the ride and taken off immediately afterwards, and act almost as sneakers for the horse.  They provide cushioning and protection and also prevent the hooves from chipping and breaking on hard ground.

A second important reason to have a set of hoof boots on hand is for emergency situations.  A thrown shoe can be a real problem for many horse owners, especially if your farrier isn’t immediately available.  A boot can be used until your farrier can replace the shoe, and you and your horse can enjoy a ride in the meantime.  Additionally, boots are excellent when a poultice is required and can be much easier to use than applying plastic bags and duct tape to protect the bandaging.

When purchasing a set of boots, it is important to measure your horse’s feet to ensure accurate sizing.  As with any new equipment, slowly get your horse used to them and be patient if he doesn’t accept them immediately.  Once you are able to actually put them on your horse, leave them on only for short periods of time initially, and check his feet for any rub marks that may indicate a poor fit.  Boots should not typically be used over shoes, and of course are not a substitute for regular trimming.

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How to Poultice a Horse’s Hoof

The traditional method for dealing with a hoof abscess has typically involved daily foot soaks in Epsom salts.  But could this actually be damaging your horse’s foot, instead of helping it to heal?  When excess moisture enters the hoof wall, it causes damage by softening and weakening it, which can lead to the horse walking more on his sole and causing discomfort.  It can also prevent an abscess pocket from fully draining and drying up.

A much better option is to poultice the hoof.  A poultice allows for constant moisture and medication without damaging the hoof in the manner of soaking.  It is possible to purchase pre-made, medicated poultices that are ready to apply to your horse’s foot.  Follow the instructions carefully – usually you will need to soak the poultice in hot water before applying it to the hoof.  An alternative to purchasing this type of product is to make your own poultice.  Although there are many recipes that can be used, a common and simple poultice is to mix two parts wheat bran and one part Epsom salts.  The mix should be moistened enough to allow it to be packed on the hoof.

An easy way to apply the poultice is using a disposable diaper.  If the foot needs to sweat, use a plastic covered diaper and cover the foot with duct tape.  Alternatively, if it is desirable for the hoof to breathe, try using a non-plastic diaper and then use VetWrap to wrap the hoof.  For added protection, a rubber boot can be used, although it can often be difficult to fit the poulticed foot into a boot.  The poultice should be changed either daily or every other day and continued until the abscess has broken open and fully drained, which usually takes a few days.

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Puncture Wounds to the Hoof

Any time when the hoof structure is compromised, there is potential for a dangerous, even life-threatening, situation for your horse.  Puncture wounds to the hoof are particularly devastating and require immediate attention.  Most hoof punctures occur through the sole and are usually caused by nails, either during the shoeing process or picked up on the property.  Punctures can also be caused by glass, needles, and even sharp pieces of wood or rock.

Punctures to the frog or the back half of the sole are far more serious than those at the front of the hoof.  Wounds to the heel area can cause damage and infection to the navicular bursa and bone, and can also cause damage to the deep digital flexor tendon in your horse’s leg.  These types of wounds should be considered an emergency and your vet called immediately.

The first thing to do is remove the foreign object so that the horse does not continue stepping on it, and clearly mark the wound so that it can be easily found later.  If you cannot remove the object, or if the wound is deep, do not delay in calling your veterinarian.  If, however, you are satisfied that the wound is relatively superficial, you can clean the wound and hoof and apply a poultice.  Ensure that your horse is up to date on his tetanus vaccinations, and if he is not, have your vet administer an immediate tetanus anti-toxin injection.

If your horse shows lameness over the next 24 to 48 hours, it is likely that the wound is either infected or has caused damage to the structure of the hoof.  At this point in time, call your veterinarian for further treatment and bandage the hoof to keep it clean and dry while waiting for his arrival.  In most cases, your vet will drain the wound and possibly use a poultice to continue drawing out the infection.  In some cases the wound will also be packed to keep it clean.  In very serious infections, part of the hoof may actually need to be cut away, a special shoe applied, and clean dressings used.  These types of injuries take a relatively long time to heal and require patient doctoring.

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Dealing with Hoof Cracks

Hoof cracks are a common problem for many horse owners, and typically take a relatively long time to heal.  Preventing hoof cracks is a much easier job than dealing with them, and some relatively simple stable management techniques can ward off these painful and irritating injuries.

  • Keep your horse’s feet dry.  Cracks typically develop from the drying process – as it dries the natural moisture in the hoof dries as well.  A constant cycle of wet-dry, wet-dry will usually cause cracking.  This could be from frequent bathing or even putting horses onto wet ground and then bringing them into a dry stable.
  • Use a hoof sealer if conditions make your horse prone to cracks.  Avoid moisture rich dressings and creams which will produce the unintended and harmful effect of wetting then drying the hoof.  Instead, use a thin sealant product which dries fast on the hoof and seals in the moisture.
  • Keep to a regular trimming and shoeing schedule.  As hooves become long and brittle they will crack more easily.  When a horse loses or pulls a shoe he can often lose chunks of his hoof with it.
  • Try feeding supplements such as Farrier’s Formula that contain minerals and vitamins to help stimulate healthy hoof growth.  Talk to your farrier about what products they recommend.
  • Exercise your horse regularly.  Exercise helps stimulate blood circulation to the hoof, thereby creating internal moisture.  Horses standing idle all day, unable to move around, will be at a higher risk for unhealthy feet.

Remember, hoof growth occurs at about one centimeter per month.  A hoof crack will take a long time to grow out, and also runs the risk of becoming infected.  Keep an eye on your horse’s feet and develop good horse keeping patterns that will maintain healthy hooves.

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Should Your Horse go Barefoot?

Many horse owners take shoeing their horse for granted, but in reality many horses can go barefoot with little difficulty. Here are some questions to consider if you are looking at making the jump from shoes to barefoot:

  1. What type of feet does your horse have? Some breeds, such as Arabs, have exceptionally strong feet and do very well without shoes. However, you will need to discuss with your farrier or vet as to whether your horse is sound enough to go barefoot. Some conditions, such as founder, require corrective and therapeutic shoeing to keep the horse comfortable.
  2. What type of riding do you do? If your horse is primarily worked on soft ground and you don’t show, going barefoot is probably just fine. However, if you are doing extensive trail riding on hard packed or rocky ground, your horse will need the additional protection of shoes.
  3. Does your farrier have experience with barefoot trims? A barefoot trim needs to be handled just as carefully as putting shoes on a horse – it is not simply pulling the shoes and trimming the horse’s hoof. Ensure that your farrier is comfortable working with barefoot horses, and make sure to keep to a very regular trimming schedule.
  4. Are you willing to listen to your horse? Above all, it will be your horse who dictates whether barefoot is a viable option. You will need to be tuned into your horse’s behaviour, watching for touchy walking, lameness, and hooves that are chipped or cracked. Some horses are more prone to abscesses when they go without shoes.
  5. Are you considering barefoot to save money? This cannot be a financial decision. Often a barefoot trim is just as expensive as having your horse shod, and of course having a lame, sore horse will not bring savings to your pocketbook.
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Standing for the Farrier

A horse that doesn’t stand quietly for the farrier is a danger both to himself and to those working around him.  Try these steps to make your horse more comfortable during a farrier visit:

  1. If your horse doesn’t like being separated from his buddies, try having a quiet horse close by that your horse can bond with while the farrier works.  Even better, work on slowly separating your horse from his herd for increasing amounts of time every day.
  2. Practice with your horse standing quietly.  It will take him a while to have the patience to stand for the 45 minutes or so that your farrier will need to work on him.  Start off slow and work your way up, always staying within the time limit your horse can handle.
  3. Try lifting your horse’s feet and holding them for a few seconds.  Gradually increase this amount of time.
  4. If you feel you are experienced enough, you may also wish to hold your horse’s foot in both farrier positions – up between your legs and straight forward for rasping – for very brief periods of time.  If your horse is comfortable with this, you can gradually increase the amount of time you ask him to stand unbalanced.
  5. If you can get your hands on a dull rasp, you might want to practice running the rasp lightly over your horse’s hoof, getting him used to both the feel and the sound.
  6. When your horse is standing quietly, try tapping lightly on his feet with a small hammer to replicate the feeling of having horseshoes nailed on.
  7. If your horse isn’t too greedy, you might want to have some treats handy to keep him interested in you while the farrier works.

With the proper preparation, farrier visits don’t have to be scary – for you or your horse!

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Preparing Your Horse for the Clippers

If you want to use clippers to prepare your horse for a show or to get his winter coat under control, you’ll need to make sure he is thoroughly prepared for what is, to most horses, a very scary experience.  As with any training, take your time and don’t rush the process - it may take several days before you can actually clip your horse.  Start by turning the clippers on in the barn, but not next to your horse, so that he can get comfortable with the sound.  Gradually bring the clippers closer and watch how he reacts.  Keep the clippers out of sight, and feed him some treats.  Once he appears to be taking no notice of the sound, you can begin to bring the clippers in sight of the horse.  As he accepts this, you can begin to rub him with the vibrating clippers, although not actually clipping at this point.  When he is calm and comfortable, you can slowly start to clip.  Most horses are simply frightened of the noise and desensitization to the sound quickly removes any fear.  However, horses that are ticklish and find the actual clipping to be unpleasant are harder to work with.  If at any time you feel threatened by your horse’s reactions, contact an experienced horse-person or trainer for assistance.  Remember that pushing the horse into a state of panic will not cause him to learn anything except that he truly has something to fear.  Also be aware that if your horse panics and you turn the clippers off, he will have learned that by panicking and threatening you, the clippers disappear. Take it slow and end each session on a positive note and you’ll find that the entire process will go much more smoothly.

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How to Treat a Hoof Abscess

If you find your horse suddenly and acutely lame, and he can barely put pressure on the affected foot, it’s very possible he has a hoof abscess.  The first thing to do in a case like this is to call your vet or farrier.  After using hoof-testers to locate the abscess, they will cut open the infected pocket and drain it, giving your horse instant relief.  Keeping the foot clean is vital for the healing process.  First soak your horse’s foot in Epsom salts and warm water at least once per day and then, placing a gauze pad soaked in iodine and table sugar on the infected area, wrap with a VetWrap bandage.  To keep the horse’s foot dry, put a plastic bag over the hoof and wrap with duct tape.  This will keep the foot dry even in the wet bedding of the stall, and the duct tape will keep your horse from ripping it open.  Alternatively, you could use a poultice boot. 

You will need to keep up this routine until your horse’s hoof stops smelling of infection, usually about 5 days or so.  Keep your horse in a clean, dry stall during this recovery time.  If your vet or farrier can’t find the abcess, you’ll need to have x-rays taken.  Once the possibility of a fracture has been ruled out, poultice the hoof until the abscess drains on its own, either on the sole or the coronet.  You’ll notice immediate improvement when it bursts, as your horse will immediately begin to put pressure on the infected hoof.  Before finishing with the bandaging, you may wish to have your vet or farrier back for a follow-up visit to ensure that everything has healed properly.

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What to do When Your Horse has Thrush

If you’ve noticed a foul, strong odor accompanied by a black, oozing discharge when picking out your horse’s feet, it’s likely he has a case of thrush.  Occurring most often through the rainy winter months, thrush is the result of a bacterial infection that can develop if your horse is frequently standing on wet ground.  Additionally, horses can develop thrush from standing in the wet bedding of their stalls.  These moist environments are excellent breeding grounds for the anaerobic bacteria that infect your horse’s feet as they become packed with the contaminated mud or bedding.  Thrush typically affects the horse’s frog and can lead to lameness, infection, and even serious deformities.  Luckily, it is not only easy to catch in the early stages but also responds well to treatment.

Pick out the infected feet thoroughly, then wash with warm water and an iodine scrub and pat dry.  One of the easiest and cheapest methods to deal with thrush is to simply combine an iodine solution with table sugar to form a syrupy paste.  Apply this directly to the horse’s foot, especially in the grooves along the frog, and move your horse to a clean and dry environment.  You will need to keep up this routine daily, for about 5 – 10 days, until the infection is gone.  In some cases, before applying the medication, you may wish to have your vet or farrier look at your horse and trim back the frog so that no bacteria are trapped inside.

As with most things, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  Keeping your horse’s environment as clean and dry as possible and picking his feet out everyday are excellent ways to prevent a thrush infection.  Since the bacteria cannot survive in oxygenated environments, picking your horse’s feet every day is an excellent way to prevent an outbreak.

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What to do When Your Horse Loses a Shoe

Having secure shoes is probably the most important thing for a horse. Riding a horse who is missing a shoe can lead to major health problems for the horse. There are many different circumstances under which a horse can lose his shoe. If you handle the situation properly you can dramatically improve your horse's chances for a full recovery. If you see that your horse has lost a shoe while riding, get off your horse immediately. Do not attempt to ride your horse again until he has a real shoe on. Look around the area to see if you can find the missing horse shoe. Discarded horse shoes contain nails that can cause problems if left alone. Check your horse's foot to make sure the shoe has come completely off. Often times, when a shoe has thrown pieces of the hoof may come off as well which is a major health hazard for the horse. If you see that the hoof is bleeding, get help from a professional right away. If your horse's hoof looks ok and is not bleeding, check carefully for any remaining nails. Nails in the hoof can impair the horse's ability to walk. Attempt to walk your horse to the stable and check over the hoof more carefully once you arrive. Hoof boots are very useful in this situation, if you have one -  you're in luck. If you do not have a hoof boot, dress the hoof with a gamgee and wrap tightly with vet wrap, then wrap tightly with duct tape. Now you can safely put the horse back in his stall. Try to have a farrier reshoe the horse as soon as possible.

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