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Safely Leading Your Horse

Working with horses on the ground can be just as dangerous as riding, with the possibility of a horse stepping on or knocking over their handler. Here are some tips on how to safely lead your horse on the ground.

  • Stand on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope close to his face in your right hand. Gather the excess lead rope and fold it into your left hand. Don’t allow it to drag on the ground as either you or the horse could trip or become entangled.
  • Walk at the horse’s shoulder, giving a gentle tug to ask him to move forward and a firm backward pull to ask him to stop. To turn, twist your hand in the direction you wish to go.
  • Don’t let your horse lag too far behind. If he spooks he could run you over. Avoid letting your horse get too far ahead where he can either drag you or kick out with his back feet.
  • Never wrap the excess lead rope around your hand. If your horse spooks, you could be dragged. For the same reason, do not lead a horse by putting your hand inside his halter.
  • Choose a lead rope that is wide enough to be comfortable in your hand, and that won’t give you rope burn should the horse pull it through your fingers
  • Don’t store your lead rope where it is damp, as they are susceptible to mold, and don’t leave it where your horse can chew on it.
  • Avoid using snaps that have rusted, as they will be difficult to get on and off.
  • Remember, your lead rope isn’t leading your horse, you are! If your horse is not respectful when being led, he needs more training and practice to learn how to be more mannerly.
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Is Your Horse Suffering From Back Pain?

Usually we take for granted our horses’ strong backs, however, what if your horse is suffering from back pain?  How can you tell, and if you suspect he is, what can you do about it?  Just as with humans, back pain in horses can make them incredibly uncomfortable, irritable, and have difficulty moving.

Suspect back pain if your horse shows signs of poor performance, hesitant gaits, or sensitivity to being touched over their back.  They might also fight the saddle and attempt to get you off their backs once mounted.  Horses with back pain are usually cranky and irritable, and may not be able to perform such maneuvers as rounding their backs when jumping or keeping their gaits collected.  Some horses will also carry their tail at an off angle.

There are many causes of back pain, and you will likely need your veterinarian’s assistance in pinpointing just what is going on with your horse.  The most common problem is an ill-fitting saddle or a poor rider who may be mounting improperly.  Off balance riding can cause your horse to move unnaturally to compensate, thereby straining their back.  Additionally, older horses will be more prone to arthritis.  Falls and injuries can also cause damage to your horse’s back, and sometimes a secondary problem, such as arthritis in the hock, can cause the horse to overexert his back muscles.

Finding the cause of your horse’s pain will take some investigating.  You’ll need to consider your horse’s unique situation, such as his age, how often he is worked, and what kind of work he does.  You’ll want to have your saddle fully checked to make sure it fits properly.  Your veterinarian will also be able to do a physical exam to check for other injuries or lameness that might be contributing to the back problem.  In conjunction with your veterinarian, you might also decide to work with an equine chiropractor or an equine physiotherapist.  Once the underlying issue is discovered, then you will be able to work out a plan for helping your horse to be pain-free.

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Dealing with Horses that Bite

A biting horse is extremely dangerous, no matter what the cause of his bad behavior.  If your horse has a tendency towards nipping or outright biting, it is important that you understand why he is exhibiting this behavior, and what to do about it.  In mild cases, it is annoying to constantly watch your horse to ensure he’s not nipping at you, and at the other extreme, people have been killed and seriously injured by horse bites.  It is not a behavior to take lightly, and if you are unable to deal with the problem on your own, enlist the help of a good trainer.  Remember, if your horse bites he is putting all those he comes in contact with at risk, not just yourself.

Horses will sometimes bite out of pain or fear.  It is important to rule out these factors when assessing your horse’s behavior.  This could be the case if your horse always tries to bite at particular times, such as when you are cinching up the saddle, or if he suddenly shows this behavior when you are touching a certain area.

Most horses who bite are simply showing dominant behavior.  In a herd, horses nip and bite at one another when playing their hierarchy games.  The best thing to do with a horse like this is calmly send the horse out of your space when he makes his biting attempt.  This mimics herd behavior of the more dominant horses refusing to engage in this play.

In rare cases, the horse may be actually aggressive towards humans.  If you suspect that this is what is going on with your horse, it is vital that you work with an experienced trainer to help the horse to learn that he must respect humans.

Overreacting to your horse’s behavior, even in the case of an aggressive horse, will not teach your horse manners.  Hitting or yelling at your horse will be counterproductive and also will not solve the problem.

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Using Clicker Training for Your Horse

As riders, we tend to concentrate mainly on our horse’s behavior while we are in the saddle.  However, spending time with your horse on the ground is essential for bonding and allowing your horse to respect you once you are up in the saddle.  Clicker training has emerged as a technique for successfully training many animals, including dogs, cats, and also marine mammals.  Clicker training can be very successful when working with horses as well, and teaching your horse to understand the clicker can be very helpful for teaching him all kinds of fun and useful things.

Clicker training works by allowing the animal to associate the clicker with praise.  This allows you, as the trainer, to immediately praise desired behavior simply by pressing the clicker and making the clicking noise.  This is preferred to handing out treats or giving a neck rub or verbal praise because it allows for an immediate reward of the good behavior.  Too often we are delayed in praising the behavior we desired because we are fishing treats out of our pocket or are transferring off the lead rope to give a good neck massage.

The first thing to do when starting to clicker train is to get the horse to understand that the clicker means yes.  You can do this by making the clicking noise, and then following it up with a treat.  Since you will be treating the horse often in this stage of training, try using relatively small, healthy treats that won’t upset his tummy.  Follow this pattern of clicking and treating for about ten or twelve times, then end the session.  Clicker training is best accomplished in small sessions several times per day.  It likely won’t take him long to figure out that the click means that food is on its way, depending on how social and food-oriented he is.  This will make him want to work for the click in future sessions.

Once your horse understands what the click means, you can use this tool to teach pretty much any desired behavior.  Just remember to keep your sessions short, end on a good note, and don’t forget to be patient with your horse.

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The Heat Cycle in Mares

In the horse world, mares often have a reputation for being unpredictable and grouchy, something that is usually attributed to their heat cycles. Many horse people prefer to ride geldings, and claim that geldings are more placid and less touchy than most mares. However, a simple understanding of your mare’s heat cycle can make owning a mare just as pleasurable as a gelding.

Mares cycle only during their regular breeding season, which is typically from spring to early fall. During this breeding period, a mare will cycle ever 21 – 23 days. During this time, there will be approximately eight days when her body would be receptive to breeding – this is called her estrus period. Mares can experience a range of symptoms either before, during, or after this period. Each mare will be unique. Some will display extreme behavioral changes, others will show mild grumpiness, and still others will show no change at all.

During the winter months, a mare’s cycle will shut down and she will stop experiencing the symptoms that go along with it. This is a good time of year to really get to know your mare and her reactions as she is under normal conditions. Note what she likes and doesn’t like, and how she reacts to various routines such as grooming, tacking up, and riding.

As spring approaches, use a calendar to mark down your mare’s behavior each day. When is she loving, cooperative and responsive? When is she grouchy, moody, and doesn’t want to be handled? Maybe she swishes her tail or pins her ears back? As you note these behaviors, patterns will develop and you will likely be able to pinpoint the times during her cycle when her behavior changes. If your mare’s heat reactions are extreme, you might want to use this knowledge to work around her off days. With a little understanding and cooperation, working with a mare can be just as enjoyable and rewarding as working with a gelding.

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How Horses Sleep

Even with the amount of time that most horse owners spend at the barn, it is probably quite unlikely that you’ve ever caught your horse in the middle of a nap.  Here are some facts about your horse’s sleeping habits, and why you probably won’t ever see him sound asleep.

  • Horses sleep for only about three hours a day.  This is a far cry from our own need for eight hours a night!
  • Horses have what is called a stay apparatus in their front legs and a check apparatus in their back legs.  This is what allows them to remain standing when they are asleep.
  • Most horses will rest frequently for small periods of time.  Remember, your horse is at heart a prey animal whose main defense is watchfulness and being able to outrun his predators.  Horses evolved to be able to sleep lightly and for short periods of time.
  • If your horse has a comfortable place to do so, he will probably lay down for a short period of time once a day.  However, don’t be alarmed if you never see your horse laying down.  Being off their feet can actually be quite stressful for a horse, and can also inflict pressure on their internal organs.
  • Sleeping horses carry their weight on their forelegs and one hind leg, with the other hind leg rotated forward and resting on the toe.
  • Foals will sleep much more than an adult horse, and will frequently nap lying down.  As they grow older, their napping will lessen and they will spend more time sleeping while standing.
  • Many horses enjoy sunning themselves by stretching full out in a field or paddock.  This is quite normal, and some will even sleep this way.
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What to Do When Your Horse Visits the Veterinarian

Even if your horse is incredibly healthy, he will likely experience a vet exam at least once a year for vaccinations and dental work.  All horses should know how to stand calmly and be examined by your veterinarian.  Here are some things to bear in mind, to keep both you and your horse safe and unstressed during a vet visit.

  • If at all possible, exercise your horse prior to the vet’s arrival, particularly if he is stabled.  Once he gets all his excess energy out he’ll be a much easier horse to handle.
  • Practice touching your horse all over his body, and get him comfortable with being poked and prodded.  Play with his mouth, handle his ears, feel his legs.
  • Be prepared for the vet’s arrival with a clean horse.  Your vet doesn’t want to have to handle a dirty horse, and in fact, a dirty coat can mask problems such as skin infections.  Your vet will want to see your horse at his best.
  • During the exam, stand on the same side of your horse as your vet.  You’ll be able to talk more easily, and if your horse spooks there is less chance of one of you getting hurt.
  • Give your vet plenty of room to work and don’t forget good lighting.  Have the area cleared and ready to go.  If your stall is too small or dark, be prepared and have another more suitable area ready.
  • Know where your power outlets are, as well as running water.  Have warm water available if possible, even if it is only by bringing a small kettle with you.
  • Try to keep calm.  Your horse will easily pick up on your stress levels.  If you are calm and confident, there is a good chance he will be too.
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Keep Your Horse from Jigging

Horses always know immediately when it is time to turn around on the trail and head for home, and it’s comical to watch their ears come up and their gaits become more energetic.  However, if you’ve ever ridden a horse that jigs on the way back to the barn, you’ll recognize that this rather adorable equine trait can turn sour very quickly if the horse decides that he wants to get home faster than you do.

A horse that jigs picks up a gait between a walk and a trot.  Trying to sit on a jigging horse is like sitting on a sledgehammer, and about as comfortable.  It can be a very frustrating experience, especially if you are riding with a group and needing to moderate your speed to the other riders.

 

Unfortunately there are no easy solutions for a horse that jigs.  What you will need is lots of time and lots of patience.  Start out by giving corrective pulls on the reins when your horse starts to jig.  As soon as he steps down to a walk, release the pressure.  Pick it up again if he steps up his gait.  This can be successful for a horse who is listening, but often it can turn into a pulling contest.  If this is the case, then give your horse a few opportunities to drop his gait with a corrective pull, then, if he doesn’t listen, turn your horse around and head back up the trail for 25 feet or so.  At this point you can stop, allow your horse to rest and then turn back.  When he starts jigging again, turn back, this time for 25 – 50 feet.  You’ll need to continue this, increasing the distance each time, until he realizes that his jigging is not getting him anywhere.

Stay persistent, and of course don’t forget to give him lots of praise!

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Common Horse Bad Habits

Horses were made to wander, roaming endlessly in search of food.  This instinctive need for activity can create many problems for domestic horses that are left in stalls or paddocks for days at a time, without much stimulation.  Here are some typical vices to watch for:

  • Cribbing.  Cribbing horses are unmistakable – they bite down on their stall door or paddock fence, pull back with their teeth, and inhale air, causing a rush of endorphins in their system that provide them with a reassuring feeling of well-being.  Cribbing can cause colic, weight loss, and tooth erosion.  Be wary if another horse in your barn is a cribber – horses have been known to copy this behavior.
  • Stall weaving.  A weaving horse shifts his body weight to and from each foreleg, sometimes swinging his head as well.  This can lead to weight loss and weak tendons, and presents a very neurotic image.
  • Stall walking.  Similar to weaving, but in this case the horse actually walks circles in his stall, potentially wearing a path in his bedding.
  • Pawing or digging.  A horse that continually paws at the ground is often frustrated, impatient, or nervous.  Many horses do this in anticipation of feeding.

Food bolting, mane and tail chewing, wood chewing, tail rubbing, and stall kicking are also common problems with stabled horses.  All of these problems are caused, at least in part, by boredom.  The best thing you can do to prevent your horse from picking up these bad habits is to keep him happy and stimulated.  Give your horse plenty of exercise, especially when turnout in a field or pasture isn’t possible, and try hanging toys in his stall, such as an empty milk jug or a tether ball.  Putting small mirrors at eye level can also help.  Additionally, try increasing the number of feedings you give your horse – many small feedings is a better solution than one large feeding. 

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Calming a Pushy Horse

In a herd situation, horses are constantly challenging each other to determine their role within the herd.  Horses see the world in hierarchal levels, and are always looking to reassure themselves as to where they belong within this system.  Whether it is outright challenges of dominance, or subtle changes in body language, your horse will likely try to challenge you at times, and it is imperative that you are able to read his actions with an objective mind.

Horses that push and rub up against you, invade your personal space, and almost knock you over are not only a nuisance, but are also directly challenging you.  Although often mistaken as cute and loving behavior, this is actually dangerous and can lead to other problems.  Learn to keep your horse in his own space, and correct him when he moves into yours by asking him to move back.  The more you let him get away with this initially, the more often he will attempt it.  Some horses will try to crowd handlers in the stall, causing them to be pinned against the wall.  This is also extremely dangerous, and something to be wary of.

If your horse pulls heavily when you walk him, or tries to push you into walking where he wants to go, you will need to work on his leading manners.  If you have the knowledge, try using a roundpen or a lungeline.  If this doesn’t work for you, then at least keep correcting him when he moves into your space.  When he charges ahead, stop, ask him to relax, and then try moving out again.

Your horse should never threaten you.  If you have had an experience where your horse has tried to bite or kick you, or has even cocked a foot, as if ready to kick, you will probably want to enlist the help of a professional trainer to find out where the problem lies.

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Tips to Keep Your Horse from Being Herdbound

Horses are incredibly social creatures, instinctively driven to create strong social bonds with their herd mates.  But these healthy relationships can turn into difficulties for you if your horse begins to value the company of his buddies over you.  Herdbound horses are dangerous to themselves and their handlers because horses with severe issues will do anything to get back to their herd, including running away with a rider, kicking out, jumping fences, and breaking ties.  They can be difficult to ride and work with, and a nightmare for the farrier to handle.  Here are some tips to keep your horse from getting too attached to his herd.

  1. Remove him from the herd on a regular basis, either to ride or simply to handle.  Ride your horse alone in a riding ring, if you are uncomfortable taking him on a trail by yourself, or give him a good grooming session away from his buddies.
  2. When on the trail with a group, occasionally break away from the group, either turning around or taking a different trail, and then hook up with them again.  This will help to reassure your horse that he will see his friends again.  Don’t let him race up to the group when they are in sight; instead keep him calm and walking, turning him around if he gets too upset.
  3. While riding with a group, keep your horse’s mind occupied by actively working with him.  Ask him to move back and forth on the trail, turn around, or move backwards.  Keep his mind attuned to you.
  4. Be assertive with your horse and remember that you are his leader.  Don’t always let him make the decisions, especially when you are riding with other horses, or when you are letting him go in the pasture.
  5. Develop a strong relationship with your horse, so that he knows he can trust you.  If you are strong and confident, he will have more trust in your leadership and be more prepared to follow you into what, in his mind, may be dangerous situations.

 

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Introducing a New Horse to the Herd

Although some horse owners simply turn a new horse out with the herd and let the horses themselves work out their hierarchy, there are some things you can do when introducing a new horse to the herd that will help protect everyone’s safety.  If at all possible, turn the new horse out in an adjacent field or paddock so that the horses can all get comfortable with one another while safely on either side of a fence.  Once they have spent a few days checking each other out, you can try putting them out together.  If you have one particularly dominant or aggressive horse in your herd, you might wish to remove him and let the new horse settle in with the others.  When you release the dominant horse back into the herd, he’ll be the one entering a now relatively stable herd hierarchy.  This will hopefully minimize his need to pick on the newcomer.  You might also want to try taking the horses out on a ride together, where they can get to know each other in a controlled environment. 

Turning the horses out together will carry some risk no matter how much you have prepared, so be sure that someone is on hand to deal with any situations that might arise.  If the horses have enough room to move around, there should be few problems, as they will be able to keep moving if needed.  However, if a horse gets cornered and can’t get away from a more aggressive herd mate, you may need to get involved.  Carry a lunge whip with you just in case.

Try turning them out when they are hungry and hopefully they will be too interested in eating to be bothered with challenging one another.  If possible, pull the hind shoes of horses that are spending time together in the field – this will prevent serious injury from misplaced kicks. 

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Dealing With a Horse that’s Hard to Catch

There’s nothing quite as frustrating as standing in a large pasture with a halter and lead rope in your hand, watching your horse run away from you to the farthest corner.  If your horse is difficult to catch, try the following training tips:

  1. Visit the pasture often for brief visits, without approaching your horse.  This will teach your horse that your presence does not necessarily mean work.  Don’t approach your horse or make eye contact, and if your horse approaches you, let him sniff you, but walk away before he walks away from you.  Remember – you are the decision maker.
  2. Give your horse special treatment in the field, and don’t always take him out to be worked.  A grooming session or massage, depending on what your horse likes, will be a nice treat and can be done in the field.
  3. If your horse is wary of you approaching with a halter, then get in the habit of carrying the halter over your shoulder and make frequent visits to the field without trying to catch your horse.  When he is ready, you can approach him with the halter without attempting to catch him.  Slipping the halter over his head, leading him around for a moment, and then letting him go can also be useful in teaching him that a halter does not necessarily mean work.
  4. Try leaving a breakaway halter on your horse while he is in the field.  This may make it easier for you, rather than trying to get the halter over his head.  A breakaway halter will snap should your horse become entangled, so if you do decide to let him loose in the field with a halter, definitely make sure it’s the breakaway kind.  If you do have to halter your horse in the field, loop the lead rope around his neck first so that if he starts to move away you can guide him to a stop.
  5. Be cautious of bribing your horse with treats.  Feeding treats with other loose horses present can be very dangerous, as they will often crowd you as they anxiously try to get their share of the goodies.  It is much better to train your horse properly than to rely on treats for good behavior.
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