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Horse Breeds A to Z: The Abyssinian Gala Horse

The Abyssinian breed of horse, also sometimes referred to as a Gala horse or an Ethiopian horse, is a rough and short haired breed of horse that originated in Africa in the country of Ethiopia along the coastlines of the Red Sea. The Abyssinian horse is quite small in stature, standing only about 13 hands high.

The coat of the Abyssinian horse, as stated above, is quite harsh and one interesting thing about this breed, their coat features many rosettes and ridges and these horses can easily be identified by the trademark "mustache" which grows around the nose.

The Abyssinian first came to the UK in the 17th century, and has long since been a favorite horse breed in England and surrounding areas.

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Safely Leading Your Horse

Working with horses on the ground can be just as dangerous as riding, with the possibility of a horse stepping on or knocking over their handler. Here are some tips on how to safely lead your horse on the ground.

  • Stand on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope close to his face in your right hand. Gather the excess lead rope and fold it into your left hand. Don’t allow it to drag on the ground as either you or the horse could trip or become entangled.
  • Walk at the horse’s shoulder, giving a gentle tug to ask him to move forward and a firm backward pull to ask him to stop. To turn, twist your hand in the direction you wish to go.
  • Don’t let your horse lag too far behind. If he spooks he could run you over. Avoid letting your horse get too far ahead where he can either drag you or kick out with his back feet.
  • Never wrap the excess lead rope around your hand. If your horse spooks, you could be dragged. For the same reason, do not lead a horse by putting your hand inside his halter.
  • Choose a lead rope that is wide enough to be comfortable in your hand, and that won’t give you rope burn should the horse pull it through your fingers
  • Don’t store your lead rope where it is damp, as they are susceptible to mold, and don’t leave it where your horse can chew on it.
  • Avoid using snaps that have rusted, as they will be difficult to get on and off.
  • Remember, your lead rope isn’t leading your horse, you are! If your horse is not respectful when being led, he needs more training and practice to learn how to be more mannerly.
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Your First Horse Show

Most riders, at some time or another, will want to enter a horse show.  It might be that you are looking for a fun experience, and a chance to learn more about your riding by having a judge score you, or that you are wanting to start out a competitive show career.  Regardless, for your first show, you’ll want to be as prepared as possible to have a good experience, for both you and your horse.

First you’ll need to decide what classes you are going to compete in.  This may sound simple, but most horse shows have a large variety of classes.  For your first time, you’ll probably only want to choose one or two, to minimize stress for you and your horse.  You might decide to show your horse in a halter class, where you work with him on the ground in front of a judge.  If you are more comfortable in the saddle, then there will probably be several amateur classes that will be suitable for you and your horse.

Before heading to the show, make sure you have a complete checklist of everything that you’ll need.  Don’t forget grooming supplies, tack, feed, first aid kit, and such paperwork as the show registration papers, proof of ownership, Coggins test results, and veterinary records.  Pack as much as you can the night before the show and check off each item individually.  Don’t forget the things you’ll need to be comfortable as well, including snacks and your competition outfit.

Once at the show, expect that your horse may not perform up to his usual standard.  He’ll be in a new environment, with many distractions, so you’ll need to be patient.  Your first horse show is not the place to be intent on winning a blue ribbon.  Consider your difficulties to be opportunities for learning.  By making your first show pressure free, you’ll pave the way to creating a positive experience for both you and your horse to remember for the future.

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Adopting a Wild Horse

To most horse lovers, the sight of wild horses evokes a sense of beauty and freedom that is hardly matched by any other image.  It can be a natural dream to bring one of these amazing creatures into your life, but if you are seriously considering adopting a wild horse, here are a few things to keep in mind.

  • What are your intentions for the horse?  Just like a domestic horse, a wild horse requires companionship and handling.  He cannot be simply turned out to pasture to live the rest of his days in freedom.  Not only will he be incredibly lonely, but you will also be putting him in a dangerous situation if he cannot be safely handled for farrier trims and veterinary procedures.
  • Is your family supportive?  Adopting a wild horse will carry expenses and stresses that are much more extreme than with a domestic horse.  Although it may be one member of the family who is adopting and working with the horse, all family members will be affected by the decision.
  • What is your level of experience?  Wild horses require a lot of time and patient handling to be gentled.  Everything is new for them, including their surroundings, food, and proximity to people.  They have a strong instinct to flee, and might even fight you out of fear.  If you do not have strong horsemanship skills, then it is vital that you enlist the help of a qualified horse trainer to assist you through this process.
  • Is your property set up for a wild horse?  A wild horse is not suitable for boarding at a regular stable, so you will need your own property in order to bring one home.  The BLM will also demand that you meet certain requirements with regards to fencing, as wild horses are notorious escape artists.
  • How long are you willing to wait before riding your horse?  A wild horse will take a lot of time to reach the point where you can even begin to train them for riding.  If you want a horse to ride right away, a wild horse is not the best choice for you.
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The Heat Cycle in Mares

In the horse world, mares often have a reputation for being unpredictable and grouchy, something that is usually attributed to their heat cycles. Many horse people prefer to ride geldings, and claim that geldings are more placid and less touchy than most mares. However, a simple understanding of your mare’s heat cycle can make owning a mare just as pleasurable as a gelding.

Mares cycle only during their regular breeding season, which is typically from spring to early fall. During this breeding period, a mare will cycle ever 21 – 23 days. During this time, there will be approximately eight days when her body would be receptive to breeding – this is called her estrus period. Mares can experience a range of symptoms either before, during, or after this period. Each mare will be unique. Some will display extreme behavioral changes, others will show mild grumpiness, and still others will show no change at all.

During the winter months, a mare’s cycle will shut down and she will stop experiencing the symptoms that go along with it. This is a good time of year to really get to know your mare and her reactions as she is under normal conditions. Note what she likes and doesn’t like, and how she reacts to various routines such as grooming, tacking up, and riding.

As spring approaches, use a calendar to mark down your mare’s behavior each day. When is she loving, cooperative and responsive? When is she grouchy, moody, and doesn’t want to be handled? Maybe she swishes her tail or pins her ears back? As you note these behaviors, patterns will develop and you will likely be able to pinpoint the times during her cycle when her behavior changes. If your mare’s heat reactions are extreme, you might want to use this knowledge to work around her off days. With a little understanding and cooperation, working with a mare can be just as enjoyable and rewarding as working with a gelding.

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Cooling Out Your Horse

It’s a frustrating situation.  In the summer your horse heats up quickly because of the hot weather, and in the winter he heats up quickly due to his thick winter coat.  No matter what the season, it is likely that after a hard ride you will probably have to spend some time cooling your horse out.  Remember, no matter how tired you are at the end of a ride, your horse’s health depends upon you spending the time to help his body return to normal.  You wouldn’t work up a big sweat and then stand around in the cold winter air, so you shouldn’t expect your horse to either.

  • Always allow your horse to walk at the end of a ride.  Depending on how hot he is, you may need to spend ten or twenty minutes just walking.  It’s a good idea when returning from a trail ride to walk your horse for the last leg of the trail.  In an ideal scenario, your horse will be almost dry by the time you get back to the barn.
  • Strip the saddle pad and offer your horse a small amount of water.  Contrary to popular belief, allowing a horse to drink when he’s hot won’t cause colic, and instead will help him fight the effects of dehydration.
  • In summer, you can simply walk your horse at a good pace while his vital signs return to normal and his coat dries up.  In winter, you will want to add a blanket or cooler to protect your horse from the cold.
  • If you know you won’t have a lot of time after your ride, don’t let your horse sweat up too much.  Give him lots of time to cool off during the ride.
  • For horses with a thick winter coat who quickly heat up in the winter, it might be wise to at least partially clip them.  Keep in mind this will require blanketing your horse to keep him warm.
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How to Clean Your Saddle

Having a clean saddle means having a safe saddle, so although it is tempting to put off this rather time-consuming chore, it is important to protect your saddle against mold and other damaging conditions that can build up over time.  These problems can cause your saddle to deteriorate and wear in ways that will make it unsafe for riding.  Although a saddle should be wiped clean of sweat and mud after every use, a thorough cleaning can be done once or twice per year, depending on how often you use it and in what conditions you ride.  Follow these simple steps to make for an easy but thorough process.

  1. Take your saddle apart, to the best of your ability.  Remove metal fittings, straps, and buckles.  It is easier to clean these pieces separately than when they are attached, and this will also allow you to thoroughly clean underneath.
  2. Use a mild saddle soap made of glycerine to clean the leather.  Rub a damp cloth into the soap to create lather, and then apply to the saddle using small circular motions.  Do not use saddle soap on any suede or rough leather areas.
  3. Once the saddle has been thoroughly lathered, use a damp cloth to remove the soap.  Use a cotton swap to get the soap out of all cracks, crevices, and stitching.  Soap that is left behind will not only dull your saddle but will also trap dirt that will erode the leather.
  4. Use a dry towel over the saddle before applying leather conditioner.
  5. To condition your saddle, use a product such as neatsfoot oil or beeswax.  Don’t apply too much oil, as this can further damage your saddle.  Use a dry rag to lightly spread the oil over the saddle.
  6. Now is the time to work on all the fittings that you removed from the saddle, including stirrups.  If you have metal fittings, try using a metal cleaner to help them shine.
  7. Once the saddle and pieces have dried, you can then put it all back together.  Since it is often the sweatiest part of your horse’s saddle, don’t forget to wash his girth strap.
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Pre-Purchase Veterinary Exams for Horses

When making the decision to purchase a house or car, many buyers wouldn’t consider making the decision without having an objective third party complete a thorough inspection.  Buying a horse is also a heavy commitment – financially, emotionally, and time-wise – and the purchase of a horse should also be accompanied by a thorough exam to ensure that you as the buyer know what you might be getting into.  Some considerations:

  • Be prepared to pay for the exam.  It is not the seller’s responsibility to hire the veterinarian.
  • Do not use the seller’s veterinarian, as this constitutes a conflict of interest.
  • Get the results of the exam in writing.  This will prevent you from potentially missing something important.
  • Consider having a farrier on hand as well to examine the horse’s hoof.  The veterinarian may need shoes pulled to give a more complete exam, and it will be your responsibility to ensure that the horse is re-shod.  Be willing to chat with the horse’s regular farrier but, as with the veterinarian, hire your own objective farrier for an exam.
  • Prior to the exam, discuss with the veterinarian the criteria that are most relevant to you.  For instance, if you are looking for a trail horse, you will have different requirements than someone looking for a brood mare.  There may be conditions that you are willing to accept.
  • Be aware that no horse is perfect.  It is your veterinarian’s job to point out every potential problem with the horse.  Be prepared to thoroughly study the report to decide what conditions are forgivable, and what will cause you to walk away from the deal.
  • Don’t expect the veterinarian to predict the future.   A pre-purchase exam can only tell you about the horse on that particular day – a very small window of time.  Any horse can develop future illness and lameness.  Your goal here is to rule out or understand any current problems.
  • Invest in x-rays.  Your vet will be able to read the results with you and pinpoint such possibly hidden conditions as arthritis or bone rotation due to founder.
  • Be cautious of signing anything with the seller before the exam.  Sometimes a seller will disclose a condition of the horse before the exam, and ask you to sign a contract saying you will accept that condition and proceed with the purchase, provided the rest of the exam comes back positive.  If you do so, be fully aware of what the condition entails.  If you later decide not to take the horse based on this defect, then you have a good chance of losing your deposit money.
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When to Blanket Your Horse?

If horses evolved to live freely on the prairie, without protection from the elements, why do we as horse owners insist on blanketing them?  It may seem like a silly thing, but there are some very important reasons for making the choice to blanket your horse.  First and foremost is for warmth.  Most domestic horses do grow out a very thick winter coat but in some climates this might not actually be enough to keep them warm, especially if they are spending a lot of time outdoors.  Without this extra warmth, the horse must use extra energy to keep warm and can also risk losing muscle flexibility in the cold.  If your horse doesn’t live in a cold climate, you might still decide to blanket him over the winter months.  Senior horses and hard-to-keep horses are usually the first to be blanketed through the winter months, as these horses can have a difficult time getting enough nutrients and energy from their food to help them to stay warm.  This can cause them to rapidly lose weight through the winter months.  Additionally, any horse that has been clipped, even in a simple trace clip, will need a blanket to act as a substitute for his natural defenses against the elements.

There are also times in warmer weather when blanketing your horse may be advantageous.  Lightweight sheets can keep a horse protected from flies and biting insects, and can also prevent the sun from bleaching his coat or even giving him sunburn if his coat has been clipped.  If you are planning on showing your horse, you may keep a sheet on him to prevent scratches and scrapes that will mar his perfect coat.  Standing unprotected in the rain is never good for a horse, so you might also choose to use a rain sheet if his paddock or pasture has little shelter.

When making the decision to blanket your horse, be aware that adding a blanket will inhibit his natural coat growth, and once you start blanketing for the winter season you’ll probably need to continue to do so.

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Types of Horse Blankets

If you’ve ever done an internet search for a horse blanket, you’ll probably agree that the wide array of choices available can be rather intimidating.  There seems to be a blanket for every occasion, and it can be hard for horse owners to know what they should be buying.  Here’s a summary of the most common types of horse blankets.

  • Stable Blanket.  Used for when the horse is in the barn, these usually come in a variety of weights, depending on the temperature in your area.  Some climates may need a thick, padded, or even fleece blanket, while others may need just a light quilt.
  • Turn Out Blanket.  These are similar to the stable blankets in weight, but are usually made of a stronger, water resistant material.  Horses wearing blankets in fields or paddocks need added protection from the elements, and also require a blanket that is sturdier and less likely to rip.
  • Cooler.  Large square blankets, coolers are used to help a hot horse cool off without catching a chill.  If you are working your horse hard in the winter, you will likely need to put a cooler on him after exercise to keep him warm as he gradually cools down.
  • Fly Sheet.  Made of lightweight material, these sheets are normally used in the summer to protect the horse from flies and other biting insects.  They are also sometimes used to prevent the horse’s coat from bleaching out.  These blankets are designed to not overheat your horse, even on hot days.
  • Rain Sheet.  Similar to a fly sheet, these can be used to keep your horse dry and prevent such things as rain scald or mud fever.
  • Neck Hoods and Full Covers.  These additional pieces can also provide warmth in winter or protection from flies and the sun in summer.  A neck hood slips over the horse’s neck and covers him down to the blanket, and a full hood covers his face to his muzzle, with holes cut out for his eyes and ears.
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Hydrotherapy for Horses

Swimming has long been known to be an excellent form of exercise for humans, and a way to keep in shape and improve muscle strength without putting a heavy strain on joints. Equine hydrotherapy is rapidly becoming popular in horse communities across the world for exactly the same reason, and is being used to treat all manner of lower leg lameness.

There are a couple of different types of equine hydrotherapy available, depending on the needs of your horse. One option is an underwater treadmill, where the horse is submerged in water and asked to exercise on the treadmill. Additionally, a gentle swimming program added to your horse’s normal routine can be a great method of conditioning without adding extra strain to his muscles. However, be aware that horses are not strong swimmers and the addition of swimming to a training program should not be undertaken without consultation with a veterinarian first.

Equine hydrotherapy spas have also been proven to be beneficial for horses with tendon injuries, and also as a preventative measure for horses exercised regularly on hard ground. These spas use cold water with a high salt, oxygen, and mineral content to heal everything from tendon injuries to laminitis to deep lacerations.

As with any type of water therapy, be aware that frequent wetting and drying of your horse’s hooves can lead to cracking, dryness, or soft feet. Also, many horses have an innate fear of water, and it may take some time to get your horse to a point where he is comfortable with having his legs and body immersed. Go slowly, be patient, and do not push him beyond his capabilities. Safety is of the utmost importance for both you and your horse, especially when swimming. Be cautious that your horse does not roll or otherwise trap you underwater.

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Leg Protection for Your Horse

Depending on what type of training you do with your horse, you may find that his legs require additional protection from scrapes and bruising.  Here are several of the most common types of leg boots and wraps available, and their uses.

  • Bell boots.  Usually made of thick rubber, these boots fasten at the fetlock and hang down over the top of a horse’s hoof.  They are primarily used with horses that, for one reason or another, are at risk of over-reaching, hitting their front foot with their hind one when moving out.  These can prevent cuts and lameness on the front feet, and also protect shoes from being pulled.
  • Tendon Boots.  Typically used in show jumping, these boots protect a horse’s legs from damage when hitting the rails of a jump.  It is important not to fit boots too tightly, as this can cause pressure and damage to the canon bone.  However, also beware of doing the boots up too loosely and allowing them to slip.
  • Travel Boots.  These are typically fitted to the front and back legs and are used when trailering a horse to prevent damage from them banging their legs while in transit or when loading or unloading.
  • Hoof Boots.  These boots, made to fit over a horse’s entire hoof, act as an alternative to a horseshoe.  They are useful should a horse throw a shoe, and can also be used on barefoot horses when trail riding to provide protection to their feet.  Additionally, hoof boots are often used when poulticing a hoof injury.

Remember to get your horse comfortable with the boots first before putting them on, and always do up your straps from back to front.  Fastening too tightly can cause pressure and cut off circulation, but too loosely can allow the boots to slip and cause your horse to stumble and possibly injure himself.  If you are unsure about how to properly put on a boot, talk to an experienced horse person or trainer.

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Good Pasture for Your Horses

Keeping your horse out on pasture is the absolute ideal when it comes to giving your horse a more natural life and allowing him free movement that prevents such difficulties as stocking up and arthritis.  However, not all pastures are created equal.  Here are some things to look out for when evaluating possible pastureland for your horse.

  • Pasture should be rich in grass and short on weeds.  Where there are a lot of weeds and little grass, your horse will have a harder time keeping his nutritional needs met. 
  • Know what poisonous weeds are common in your area and walk the pasture thoroughly to ensure that none are available to your horse.  Don’t forget to check trees and shrubs as well and also check areas beyond the fence line that your horse might be able to reach.
  • All pastures should have secure and safe fencing and gates to prevent your horse from escaping, and also prevent injury should your horse interact with it.  Fences should be at least five feet tall.  Electric fencing can be an excellent option to be used in conjunction with traditional fencing, as it can prevent the horses from inflicting daily wear and tear.  Barbed wire is never a good option for horses.
  • Make sure the pasture is free from debris.  Horses can easily hurt themselves by tripping over or stepping on items hidden around the field.  Check for the possibility of construction materials, in particular nails and sharp objects that could cause a hoof puncture.
  • Provide shelter for your horse, either with a run-in shed or trees that provide good cover and shade.
  • Your horse must have easy access to drinking water.  If in a trough, ensure that the water does not go dry by checking it daily, and if relying on natural water sources keep in mind they should be running and clear, rather than stagnant.
  • The pasture should have good drainage and not have large areas of boggy, muddy ground.  Not only can deep mud cause your horse to pull shoes and come up with injuries, it can also provide the right environment for skin infections and thrush, not to mention making it difficult for an owner to access the field to catch their horse.
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Your Horse’s Winter Water Intake

Did you know that horses can only last three days without water, and can quickly become dehydrated in a matter of hours?  Horses need between eight and twelve gallons of water per day to stay healthy.  Your horse may be less likely to drink in the cold weather and his thick winter coat can hide the signs of dehydration.  Lack of water can easily lead to devastating illnesses such as colic.  Here are some tips to keep your horse drinking throughout the coldest months of the year.

  • Keep water warm by using insulated buckets or tank heaters.  In cold weather water can quickly form a skiff of ice that will prevent your horse from drinking.  Be sure to follow all safety guidelines and watch for cords that could trip your horse.
  • Automatic waterers must be checked daily for freezing and malfunction.  Be aware that you cannot monitor your horse’s water intake with an automatic waterer.
  • Do not expect your horse to eat snow to stay hydrated.  Not only must they consume far more snow than water to meet their daily intake needs, but it wastes body warmth and energy to melt it.
  • Give your horse warm water during the warmest part of the day.  Most horses will want to drink after they have had their morning hay, and when the weather is at its warmest.  Most horses do not drink during the cold parts of the day.
  • Breaking up the ice on buckets and troughs is not enough to ensure that your horse has adequate access to water.  Your horse needs warm, fresh water available throughout the day to make him comfortable enough to drink.
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Getting the Most Out of a Clinic

With many riders more interested in their horse’s behaviour and wanting to deal with problems in a humane and safe manner, it is no wonder that clinics with top trainers are so popular.  If you are dedicated to a particular discipline, want an objective comment on your riding abilities, or simply wish to understand your horse better, it is likely that you will attend a clinic at some point.  Clinics can be expensive and time consuming, so here’s how to get the most out of attending one.

Many clinicians will allow horse owners to “audit” the clinic at a highly discounted price.  This means that you attend the clinic as a spectator, without your horse, and observe the class.  This can be very useful if you are unfamiliar with the clinician and would prefer to observe before bringing your horse to attend.  It can also work for horse owners who have horses that either cannot travel or who might not be able to be worked in an unfamiliar place with new horses.  As an auditor, you will need to be prepared by bringing your own chair, a lunch, and a pen and pad of paper to take notes.  You will probably be sitting in the sun as well, so be sure to have a hat and lots of sunscreen.  Don’t interrupt the clinician when they are teaching, and only ask questions if this has been invited.  Remember, you are there to observe techniques, so the clinician may not be able to spend time with you discussing your horse’s particular behaviour.  Finally, keep chatting to a minimum as it is distracting and disrespectful to all parties involved.

If you are attending a clinic with your horse, it is important to remember that it won’t be the same as your regular riding lesson.  Not only will your horse likely be in a strange environment, but you might also be feeling a bit nervous around people you aren’t familiar with.  Additionally, expect the clinician to be kind but objective.  They will possibly be blunter than your regular riding coach. Clinicians don’t have time to get to know all horse and riders, and also don’t know their history.  They can only comment on the behaviour they are seeing in the moment, and it is their job to acknowledge this behaviour and try to teach you how to improve.  If you disagree with the clinician, try asking them about their approach rather than taking the attitude that they are wrong.

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How much weight can my horse carry?

An often voiced concern of riders, both novice and experienced, is whether their body size is a good match for their horse.  Of particular concern is often whether a rider is too big for their horse, and how heavy a rider the horse can carry.  Although our horses are incredibly strong and resilient creatures, it is important to remember that they were not built to carry people on their backs, and thus, we have the responsibility to ensure that we are not risking our horse’s health when we ride.

The general standard for how much weight a horse can carry is approximately twenty percent of its own body weight.  Thus a 1000 pound horse should be able to carry about 200 pounds.  It is important to keep in mind that this is both rider and tack.  A typical Western saddle can weigh upwards of thirty pounds, so tack must be an important consideration.  However, Western saddles can also be comfortable for the horse as they spread the weight out over a greater area than an English saddle, which can somewhat mitigate the extra pounds.  Some breeds of horses, such as Arabs or Icelandics, are known for being able to carry a heavier load than others.  Typically horses with large, strong bones and short backs are able to carry more weight.

It is also important to be aware of what type of rider is on the horse’s back.  An inexperienced rider will consistently move outside of the horse’s natural rhythm, constantly throwing him off balance.  In this situation, a heavier rider will cause the horse more difficulty.  Conversely, a good rider who stays in rhythm with his mount is probably better able to ride a smaller horse.

Finally, keep in mind what type of work that you are doing.  Walking and trotting will be easier on your horse than galloping or jumping.  If doing more strenuous exercise and competition, it is going to be much more important to be in the right proportion to your horse.

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Keeping Tails Healthy and Beautiful

A horse with a long, full tail is the envy of every horse owner in the barn.  Even if your horse tends towards having a thin and scraggly tail, there are a few simple things you can do to encourage it to grow out.

  • Do not overbrush.  Brushing out your horse’s tail too often can actually cause breakage and dryness.  When you do brush, use a good quality tail brush rather than a comb that will cause further breaking of the tail hairs.
  • Do not overbathe.  Bathing the tail might make it clean and shiny initially, but over time it will dry out the tail hairs, making them dull and easily broken.  If you want to keep your horse’s tail clean, try putting it in a tailbag.  Try not to do this when pests are prevalent, as your horse needs his tail for fly control.
  • Feed your horse good-quality food.  If your horse’s nutritional needs are being met, there is a much better chance that he’ll have a healthy and shiny mane and tail.  You might consider feeding a supplement such as Farrier’s Formula, which not only helps with hoof growth, but also keeps coats shiny.
  • Clean your horse’s sheath or udder to ensure they aren’t rubbing out of itchiness.  Also make sure that your horse is dewormed regularly, and check their backside for any clues as to what might make them itchy enough to rub their tail out.
  • Use a leave-in conditioner when brushing.  These moisturizing products also make it easier to brush out your horse’s tail, reducing breakage and making knots easier to handle.  And they smell nice too!
  • Be cautious of your fly spray.  Although necessary at times, many insect repellents are very damaging to hair and skin.  Try using a natural product if you think this might be damaging to your horse’s tail.
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When Your Horse is “Stocking Up”

Some horses, when left in their stalls for extended periods of time, have a tendency to develop swelling in their legs.  This condition is referred to as “stocking up,” and can result in discomfort and stiffness.  For most horses, the swelling will subside after ten to fifteen minutes of exercise.

Horses were not meant to stand in stalls all day and this confinement can lead to problems.  In the wild, horses move constantly as they graze and get plenty of exercise.  When they are forced to stand all day in one position, without being able to really stretch their legs, fluid can build in their legs and result in swelling.  Some horses cannot rid themselves of this fluid without exercise.

 

The best treatment and only cure is, in fact, regular exercise.  Even turning him out into a large paddock or pasture, where he can move around himself, will prevent stocking up.  Riding your horse harder or longer once a week will not remedy the problem – instead he will need regular opportunities to exercise every day.  Even one to two hours a day might be enough.

If this isn’t possible, or if your horse still has problems, hosing his legs with cold water is the best solution for bringing down the swelling.  You’ll need to hose each leg for ten to fifteen minutes, and it should be done both before and after riding.  Before your ride, you’ll want to reduce any swelling that might be there, and after your ride you’ll want to cool his legs before putting him back in his stall.

Regular hosing will cause other difficulties for your horse, including soft hooves, cracks, and skin fungus.  Be sure to fully dry your horse’s legs and feet before putting him in his stall.  Ultimately, you’ll need to find a way to add exercise to your horse’s daily routine, as you won’t want to continue to hose permanently.

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What to Do When Your Horse Visits the Veterinarian

Even if your horse is incredibly healthy, he will likely experience a vet exam at least once a year for vaccinations and dental work.  All horses should know how to stand calmly and be examined by your veterinarian.  Here are some things to bear in mind, to keep both you and your horse safe and unstressed during a vet visit.

  • If at all possible, exercise your horse prior to the vet’s arrival, particularly if he is stabled.  Once he gets all his excess energy out he’ll be a much easier horse to handle.
  • Practice touching your horse all over his body, and get him comfortable with being poked and prodded.  Play with his mouth, handle his ears, feel his legs.
  • Be prepared for the vet’s arrival with a clean horse.  Your vet doesn’t want to have to handle a dirty horse, and in fact, a dirty coat can mask problems such as skin infections.  Your vet will want to see your horse at his best.
  • During the exam, stand on the same side of your horse as your vet.  You’ll be able to talk more easily, and if your horse spooks there is less chance of one of you getting hurt.
  • Give your vet plenty of room to work and don’t forget good lighting.  Have the area cleared and ready to go.  If your stall is too small or dark, be prepared and have another more suitable area ready.
  • Know where your power outlets are, as well as running water.  Have warm water available if possible, even if it is only by bringing a small kettle with you.
  • Try to keep calm.  Your horse will easily pick up on your stress levels.  If you are calm and confident, there is a good chance he will be too.
Filed Under: Horse Behavior, Horse Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Horse Behavior, Horse Care, Horse Safety

Protect Your Horse From Flies

Around the barn flies may seem like just a minor nuisance, but to your horse they can be irritating and even dangerous.  Horse and deer flies inflict painful bites that can become infected and can also transmit disease.  Having a pest control plan in place will not only keep your horse healthy and happy but will also make you much more comfortable.

The first step is to control any potential breeding areas, thereby preventing the flies from reproducing.  Muck stalls daily and keep your manure pile away from the barn.  Manure should be spread out in the sun to allow it to dry, killing any eggs or larvae.  Scoop up any old hay and keep moisture to a minimum.  Garbage should be in airtight containers.  Secondly, you’ll need to prevent what eggs are there from hatching.  This can be done by giving a feed-through product to your horse.  This sterilizes the manure making it inhospitable for flies to lay their eggs in.  Some barns are now releasing small, parasitic wasps that live off the fly eggs and effectively prevent them from hatching.  These small wasps are of no concern to people or to horses.

Fly traps are an effective way of catching adult flies.  Bag traps use insect attractants such as pheromones to entice the flies into the bag, from which they have no way of escaping.  Fly strips are another, inexpensive, option, and are often made to hang from the ceiling.  In some cases you may decide that insecticides are needed, using foggers or misters to fumigate your barn.  Do your research and be cautious about what products you are using.

Finally, use fly sprays and repellents on your horse as a last line of defense.  Spray directly onto a sponge and apply to the horse to prevent inhalation and waste. 

Filed Under: Hoof Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Horse Care
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