Ask the Farrier » Horse Care

Horse Breeds A to Z: The Abyssinian Gala Horse

admin — Sat, 02 Feb 2008 17:37:45 +0000

The Abyssinian breed of horse, also sometimes referred to as a Gala horse or an Ethiopian horse, is a rough and short haired breed of horse that originated in Africa in the country of Ethiopia along the coastlines of the Red Sea. The Abyssinian horse is quite small in stature, standing only about 13 hands high.

The coat of the Abyssinian horse, as stated above, is quite harsh and one interesting thing about this breed, their coat features many rosettes and ridges and these horses can easily be identified by the trademark "mustache" which grows around the nose.

The Abyssinian first came to the UK in the 17th century, and has long since been a favorite horse breed in England and surrounding areas.

Safely Leading Your Horse

admin — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 18:40:25 +0000

Working with horses on the ground can be just as dangerous as riding, with the possibility of a horse stepping on or knocking over their handler. Here are some tips on how to safely lead your horse on the ground.

Stand on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope close to his face in your right hand. Gather the excess lead rope and fold it into your left hand. Don’t allow it to drag on the ground as either you or the horse could trip or become entangled.
Walk at the horse’s shoulder, giving a gentle tug to ask him to move forward and a firm backward pull to ask him to stop. To turn, twist your hand in the direction you wish to go.
Don’t let your horse lag too far behind. If he spooks he could run you over. Avoid letting your horse get too far ahead where he can either drag you or kick out with his back feet.
Never wrap the excess lead rope around your hand. If your horse spooks, you could be dragged. For the same reason, do not lead a horse by putting your hand inside his halter.
Choose a lead rope that is wide enough to be comfortable in your hand, and that won’t give you rope burn should the horse pull it through your fingers
Don’t store your lead rope where it is damp, as they are susceptible to mold, and don’t leave it where your horse can chew on it.
Avoid using snaps that have rusted, as they will be difficult to get on and off.
Remember, your lead rope isn’t leading your horse, you are! If your horse is not respectful when being led, he needs more training and practice to learn how to be more mannerly.

Your First Horse Show

admin — Wed, 16 Jan 2008 22:45:05 +0000

Most riders, at some time or another, will want to enter a horse show. It might be that you are looking for a fun experience, and a chance to learn more about your riding by having a judge score you, or that you are wanting to start out a competitive show career. Regardless, for your first show, you’ll want to be as prepared as possible to have a good experience, for both you and your horse.

First you’ll need to decide what classes you are going to compete in. This may sound simple, but most horse shows have a large variety of classes. For your first time, you’ll probably only want to choose one or two, to minimize stress for you and your horse. You might decide to show your horse in a halter class, where you work with him on the ground in front of a judge. If you are more comfortable in the saddle, then there will probably be several amateur classes that will be suitable for you and your horse.

Before heading to the show, make sure you have a complete checklist of everything that you’ll need. Don’t forget grooming supplies, tack, feed, first aid kit, and such paperwork as the show registration papers, proof of ownership, Coggins test results, and veterinary records. Pack as much as you can the night before the show and check off each item individually. Don’t forget the things you’ll need to be comfortable as well, including snacks and your competition outfit.

Once at the show, expect that your horse may not perform up to his usual standard. He’ll be in a new environment, with many distractions, so you’ll need to be patient. Your first horse show is not the place to be intent on winning a blue ribbon. Consider your difficulties to be opportunities for learning. By making your first show pressure free, you’ll pave the way to creating a positive experience for both you and your horse to remember for the future.

Adopting a Wild Horse

admin — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 19:36:21 +0000

To most horse lovers, the sight of wild horses evokes a sense of beauty and freedom that is hardly matched by any other image. It can be a natural dream to bring one of these amazing creatures into your life, but if you are seriously considering adopting a wild horse, here are a few things to keep in mind.

What are your intentions for the horse? Just like a domestic horse, a wild horse requires companionship and handling. He cannot be simply turned out to pasture to live the rest of his days in freedom. Not only will he be incredibly lonely, but you will also be putting him in a dangerous situation if he cannot be safely handled for farrier trims and veterinary procedures.
Is your family supportive? Adopting a wild horse will carry expenses and stresses that are much more extreme than with a domestic horse. Although it may be one member of the family who is adopting and working with the horse, all family members will be affected by the decision.
What is your level of experience? Wild horses require a lot of time and patient handling to be gentled. Everything is new for them, including their surroundings, food, and proximity to people. They have a strong instinct to flee, and might even fight you out of fear. If you do not have strong horsemanship skills, then it is vital that you enlist the help of a qualified horse trainer to assist you through this process.
Is your property set up for a wild horse? A wild horse is not suitable for boarding at a regular stable, so you will need your own property in order to bring one home. The BLM will also demand that you meet certain requirements with regards to fencing, as wild horses are notorious escape artists.
How long are you willing to wait before riding your horse? A wild horse will take a lot of time to reach the point where you can even begin to train them for riding. If you want a horse to ride right away, a wild horse is not the best choice for you.

The Heat Cycle in Mares

admin — Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:26:23 +0000

In the horse world, mares often have a reputation for being unpredictable and grouchy, something that is usually attributed to their heat cycles. Many horse people prefer to ride geldings, and claim that geldings are more placid and less touchy than most mares. However, a simple understanding of your mare’s heat cycle can make owning a mare just as pleasurable as a gelding.

Mares cycle only during their regular breeding season, which is typically from spring to early fall. During this breeding period, a mare will cycle ever 21 – 23 days. During this time, there will be approximately eight days when her body would be receptive to breeding – this is called her estrus period. Mares can experience a range of symptoms either before, during, or after this period. Each mare will be unique. Some will display extreme behavioral changes, others will show mild grumpiness, and still others will show no change at all.

During the winter months, a mare’s cycle will shut down and she will stop experiencing the symptoms that go along with it. This is a good time of year to really get to know your mare and her reactions as she is under normal conditions. Note what she likes and doesn’t like, and how she reacts to various routines such as grooming, tacking up, and riding.

As spring approaches, use a calendar to mark down your mare’s behavior each day. When is she loving, cooperative and responsive? When is she grouchy, moody, and doesn’t want to be handled? Maybe she swishes her tail or pins her ears back? As you note these behaviors, patterns will develop and you will likely be able to pinpoint the times during her cycle when her behavior changes. If your mare’s heat reactions are extreme, you might want to use this knowledge to work around her off days. With a little understanding and cooperation, working with a mare can be just as enjoyable and rewarding as working with a gelding.

Cooling Out Your Horse

admin — Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:24:52 +0000

It’s a frustrating situation. In the summer your horse heats up quickly because of the hot weather, and in the winter he heats up quickly due to his thick winter coat. No matter what the season, it is likely that after a hard ride you will probably have to spend some time cooling your horse out. Remember, no matter how tired you are at the end of a ride, your horse’s health depends upon you spending the time to help his body return to normal. You wouldn’t work up a big sweat and then stand around in the cold winter air, so you shouldn’t expect your horse to either.

Always allow your horse to walk at the end of a ride. Depending on how hot he is, you may need to spend ten or twenty minutes just walking. It’s a good idea when returning from a trail ride to walk your horse for the last leg of the trail. In an ideal scenario, your horse will be almost dry by the time you get back to the barn.
Strip the saddle pad and offer your horse a small amount of water. Contrary to popular belief, allowing a horse to drink when he’s hot won’t cause colic, and instead will help him fight the effects of dehydration.
In summer, you can simply walk your horse at a good pace while his vital signs return to normal and his coat dries up. In winter, you will want to add a blanket or cooler to protect your horse from the cold.
If you know you won’t have a lot of time after your ride, don’t let your horse sweat up too much. Give him lots of time to cool off during the ride.
For horses with a thick winter coat who quickly heat up in the winter, it might be wise to at least partially clip them. Keep in mind this will require blanketing your horse to keep him warm.

How to Clean Your Saddle

admin — Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:22:58 +0000

Having a clean saddle means having a safe saddle, so although it is tempting to put off this rather time-consuming chore, it is important to protect your saddle against mold and other damaging conditions that can build up over time. These problems can cause your saddle to deteriorate and wear in ways that will make it unsafe for riding. Although a saddle should be wiped clean of sweat and mud after every use, a thorough cleaning can be done once or twice per year, depending on how often you use it and in what conditions you ride. Follow these simple steps to make for an easy but thorough process.

Take your saddle apart, to the best of your ability. Remove metal fittings, straps, and buckles. It is easier to clean these pieces separately than when they are attached, and this will also allow you to thoroughly clean underneath.
Use a mild saddle soap made of glycerine to clean the leather. Rub a damp cloth into the soap to create lather, and then apply to the saddle using small circular motions. Do not use saddle soap on any suede or rough leather areas.
Once the saddle has been thoroughly lathered, use a damp cloth to remove the soap. Use a cotton swap to get the soap out of all cracks, crevices, and stitching. Soap that is left behind will not only dull your saddle but will also trap dirt that will erode the leather.
Use a dry towel over the saddle before applying leather conditioner.
To condition your saddle, use a product such as neatsfoot oil or beeswax. Don’t apply too much oil, as this can further damage your saddle. Use a dry rag to lightly spread the oil over the saddle.
Now is the time to work on all the fittings that you removed from the saddle, including stirrups. If you have metal fittings, try using a metal cleaner to help them shine.
Once the saddle and pieces have dried, you can then put it all back together. Since it is often the sweatiest part of your horse’s saddle, don’t forget to wash his girth strap.

Pre-Purchase Veterinary Exams for Horses

admin — Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:19:28 +0000

When making the decision to purchase a house or car, many buyers wouldn’t consider making the decision without having an objective third party complete a thorough inspection. Buying a horse is also a heavy commitment – financially, emotionally, and time-wise – and the purchase of a horse should also be accompanied by a thorough exam to ensure that you as the buyer know what you might be getting into. Some considerations:

Be prepared to pay for the exam. It is not the seller’s responsibility to hire the veterinarian.
Do not use the seller’s veterinarian, as this constitutes a conflict of interest.
Get the results of the exam in writing. This will prevent you from potentially missing something important.
Consider having a farrier on hand as well to examine the horse’s hoof. The veterinarian may need shoes pulled to give a more complete exam, and it will be your responsibility to ensure that the horse is re-shod. Be willing to chat with the horse’s regular farrier but, as with the veterinarian, hire your own objective farrier for an exam.
Prior to the exam, discuss with the veterinarian the criteria that are most relevant to you. For instance, if you are looking for a trail horse, you will have different requirements than someone looking for a brood mare. There may be conditions that you are willing to accept.
Be aware that no horse is perfect. It is your veterinarian’s job to point out every potential problem with the horse. Be prepared to thoroughly study the report to decide what conditions are forgivable, and what will cause you to walk away from the deal.
Don’t expect the veterinarian to predict the future. A pre-purchase exam can only tell you about the horse on that particular day – a very small window of time. Any horse can develop future illness and lameness. Your goal here is to rule out or understand any current problems.
Invest in x-rays. Your vet will be able to read the results with you and pinpoint such possibly hidden conditions as arthritis or bone rotation due to founder.
Be cautious of signing anything with the seller before the exam. Sometimes a seller will disclose a condition of the horse before the exam, and ask you to sign a contract saying you will accept that condition and proceed with the purchase, provided the rest of the exam comes back positive. If you do so, be fully aware of what the condition entails. If you later decide not to take the horse based on this defect, then you have a good chance of losing your deposit money.

When to Blanket Your Horse?

admin — Fri, 28 Dec 2007 22:29:38 +0000

If horses evolved to live freely on the prairie, without protection from the elements, why do we as horse owners insist on blanketing them? It may seem like a silly thing, but there are some very important reasons for making the choice to blanket your horse. First and foremost is for warmth. Most domestic horses do grow out a very thick winter coat but in some climates this might not actually be enough to keep them warm, especially if they are spending a lot of time outdoors. Without this extra warmth, the horse must use extra energy to keep warm and can also risk losing muscle flexibility in the cold. If your horse doesn’t live in a cold climate, you might still decide to blanket him over the winter months. Senior horses and hard-to-keep horses are usually the first to be blanketed through the winter months, as these horses can have a difficult time getting enough nutrients and energy from their food to help them to stay warm. This can cause them to rapidly lose weight through the winter months. Additionally, any horse that has been clipped, even in a simple trace clip, will need a blanket to act as a substitute for his natural defenses against the elements.

There are also times in warmer weather when blanketing your horse may be advantageous. Lightweight sheets can keep a horse protected from flies and biting insects, and can also prevent the sun from bleaching his coat or even giving him sunburn if his coat has been clipped. If you are planning on showing your horse, you may keep a sheet on him to prevent scratches and scrapes that will mar his perfect coat. Standing unprotected in the rain is never good for a horse, so you might also choose to use a rain sheet if his paddock or pasture has little shelter.

When making the decision to blanket your horse, be aware that adding a blanket will inhibit his natural coat growth, and once you start blanketing for the winter season you’ll probably need to continue to do so.

Types of Horse Blankets

admin — Fri, 28 Dec 2007 22:28:23 +0000

If you’ve ever done an internet search for a horse blanket, you’ll probably agree that the wide array of choices available can be rather intimidating. There seems to be a blanket for every occasion, and it can be hard for horse owners to know what they should be buying. Here’s a summary of the most common types of horse blankets.

Stable Blanket. Used for when the horse is in the barn, these usually come in a variety of weights, depending on the temperature in your area. Some climates may need a thick, padded, or even fleece blanket, while others may need just a light quilt.
Turn Out Blanket. These are similar to the stable blankets in weight, but are usually made of a stronger, water resistant material. Horses wearing blankets in fields or paddocks need added protection from the elements, and also require a blanket that is sturdier and less likely to rip.
Cooler. Large square blankets, coolers are used to help a hot horse cool off without catching a chill. If you are working your horse hard in the winter, you will likely need to put a cooler on him after exercise to keep him warm as he gradually cools down.
Fly Sheet. Made of lightweight material, these sheets are normally used in the summer to protect the horse from flies and other biting insects. They are also sometimes used to prevent the horse’s coat from bleaching out. These blankets are designed to not overheat your horse, even on hot days.
Rain Sheet. Similar to a fly sheet, these can be used to keep your horse dry and prevent such things as rain scald or mud fever.
Neck Hoods and Full Covers. These additional pieces can also provide warmth in winter or protection from flies and the sun in summer. A neck hood slips over the horse’s neck and covers him down to the blanket, and a full hood covers his face to his muzzle, with holes cut out for his eyes and ears.

Ask the Farrier » Horse Care

Horse Breeds A to Z: The Abyssinian Gala Horse

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Safely Leading Your Horse

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Your First Horse Show

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Adopting a Wild Horse

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The Heat Cycle in Mares

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Cooling Out Your Horse

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How to Clean Your Saddle

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Pre-Purchase Veterinary Exams for Horses

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When to Blanket Your Horse?

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