Horse Care

Tying your horse

Most horse owners routinely tie up their horses, whether during grooming, tacking up, or just to keep the horse secure while they attend to something else. However, if not done correctly, this seemingly simple and everyday practice could be putting you and your horse in a very dangerous situation.

Always tie your horse with a quick release knot. If you aren’t sure how to do this, ask a friend to show you, or check horse care books or websites. Most will have diagrams that you can use to practice. Should your horse spook or pull away, it is imperative that the knot collapse, otherwise your horse will panic at being trapped and could seriously injure himself or others. As he pulls, he’ll tighten the rope making it difficult to get a non-quick release knot undone. Never tie your horse by his bridle. As he pulls to get free he could severely injure his mouth.

Don’t tie to any object that is not secure. Fences are the best option, using the fence post rather than the rail. If your horse pulls, he should not be able to drag anything away with him. Check posts before tying to make sure that they aren’t rotten or inadequately secured into the ground. Wherever possible, keep the rope chest high to avoid it dangling around your horse’s legs and tripping him.

If you are tying your horse to your trailer or using cross-ties remember to always use quick release clasps. These clasps are made to release when met with sudden force. This way, if the horse pulls its head quickly, trying to get free, the clasp will open. They are also easier to release a spooked horse as it just takes a quick pull to get them loose. Check clasps regularly to ensure that they don’t become rusty.

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Caring for Senior Horses

Horses aged 15 and over are generally considered to be equine senior citizens. Although they can continue living healthy, happy, and very active lives, most senior horses do need some amount of special care to ensure that they are comfortable and to prevent problems from developing. Here are some tips on how to care for your aging horse:

Be aware that your horse will be more sensitive to heat and cold. In the summer, be sure he has plenty of shade. In winter, consider blanketing him if he shows signs of being chilled.
Older horses can have more difficulties with their teeth, causing them trouble with chewing and digesting their food. Have his teeth checked regularly, even twice a year if necessary.
Watch your horse for signs of weight loss. When grooming, use your hands on your horse’s body to feel for any changes. A senior horse may have more difficulty extracting the nutrients he needs from his normal diet, so consult with your veterinarian to determine whether he needs additional supplements.
Senior horses often have a weaker immunity than younger horses, causing them to be more prone to skin infections, colds and respiratory problems, insect bites, and infectious disease. Groom your horse regularly to remove unwanted bacteria, use a good insect repellant, and ensure that your horse receives medical attention if he is sick, even if it appears to be a minor issue.
Keep your older horse moving. If you are unable to ride him, try hand-walking or even swimming to get him the exercise he needs. Many idle horses wind up with poor circulation and muscle loss.
If your horse has difficulty chewing roughage, you might want to invest in pelleted food specifically designed for senior horses.

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Take Care of Your Horse’s Teeth

As grazing animals, horses have some unique needs when it comes to their teeth. Meant for grinding down tough plant fibers, and other abrasive materials, a horse’s teeth are constantly growing. Additionally, their upper molars are spaced wider apart than their lower molars. In the wild, this is beneficial because horses graze on grass all day long, which wears down and polishes their teeth quite effectively. It also requires a lot of side to side grinding, which is where the spacing difference is an evolutionary advantage. Domestic horses are not usually solely kept on grass, and instead are fed much less abrasive forage that requires less grinding. This causes the teeth to wear unevenly resulting in sharp points and hooks on the molars. These points will cause harm to your horse by cutting the inside of his mouth, preventing him from eating properly, and making the bit uncomfortable to wear.

Have your horse’s teeth checked yearly to prevent problems from getting out of control. A good time is during your yearly vaccinations. If the teeth aren’t too bad, your veterinarian may use a simple rasp to file down the points. However, some veterinarians prefer to sedate the horse and use an electric power grinder to wear down the points quickly. There is still debate on whether this is a good method of dental care – some feel that it is too easy to wear down the teeth too much, too quickly.

If your horse is dropping his food, salivating excessively, fussing with the bit, or is touchy about having his face and muzzle handled, you will want to be sure to have his teeth checked. If done regularly, having your horse’s teeth floated will be a minor occurrence, and he will live pain free.

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What to do if you can’t keep your horse

Although you might believe, as with many others, that owning a horse is a lifelong commitment, you may still find yourself in a situation where keeping your horse is no longer an option. Whether it’s a divorce, unexpected job loss, or increased barn expenses, here are some tips on how to handle this difficult situation.

Stop beating yourself up. Remember, the reason you are agonizing over this decision is precisely because you love your horse and want what is best for him. If you can’t afford to pay his monthly expenses, never mind unexpected vet fees, are you really giving him the best home possible?
Talk to family and friends, and your contacts in the horse community. The best option is always to pass your horse on to someone you know. Ideally you want to avoid having to run an ad in the paper or advertise on the Internet.
Be willing to talk about different options. Leasing can be a great option for cutting expenses. Leases are very flexible, encompassing everything from a one day a week riding time to the leasee taking on all responsibility for caring for the horse. With open dialogue, you might be able to find a way to hang onto ownership of your horse.
When you do find the right person to take your horse, be sure to draw up a contract. Indicate that if the buyer can no longer care for the horse that they have to give you the option of buying him back. If you would like to be able to visit your horse, you might want to include this in the contract as well.
Follow your gut and try not to make any impulse decisions. If the person doesn’t feel right to you, then chances are they aren’t. Move on to the next prospect.

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Dealing with a Cast Horse

If you’ve ever seen a horse that has cast himself, you’re not likely to forget the sight. Although it doesn’t happen often, this is an emergency situation that is possible for every horse owner to find themselves in. Sometimes a horse will misjudge how much room they have when they lie down or roll near the wall of their stall or a fence. Their legs get trapped and they have no way of pushing themselves away or getting their feet back up from under them.

Should you find yourself in this startling situation, consider your own safety first. If at all possible, don’t try to deal with the horse on your own. If he isn’t thrashing too much, get close to your horse and pull his head away from the wall. This may give him enough room to scramble back to his feet. If not, try pulling the head and tail at the same time. If your horse is panicked and thrashing, try looping a leadshank around the hind area and pull him forward.

Another tactic is to pull the horse’s feet, rolling him over and allowing him the space to get up. If your horse is quiet, you can probably do this by hand but if needed, a lead rope can also be looped around a leg for the same effect.

Be aware that as soon as your horse is able, he will want to scramble to his feet and will likely be nervous, agitated, and may even kick out. Make sure that you think ahead and have a quick escape route in place for when your horse does get free. Once he is up and calm, check him over for any scrapes or cuts, and walk him out for a few minutes to watch for lameness.

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Equine Physiotherapy and Chiropractic Healing

Physiotherapy and chiropractic work, although relatively new fields in horse care, are growing in popularity among owners who are looking for new ways to help their horses be comfortable and pain-free. Physiotherapy uses a number of different techniques to help rehabilitate the horse, including stretching, massage, joint and soft tissue mobilization, and hydrotherapy. Treatment is often sought for ligament, tendon and joint injuries, dysplasia of the hip or elbow, osteoarthritis, back pain, and muscle imbalance or gait problems. Varying levels of intervention are available, depending on your horse’s needs. Seemingly healthy horses can also benefit from a physiotherapist, who can conduct a full exam and inform you of any underlying issues you might be unaware of, such as poor saddle fit.

Chiropractic work is different in that equine chiropractors work specifically on adjusting a horse’s spine. In their treatment, chiropractors work on a specific joint in the spine, using their hands to stimulate nerve receptors within the joint. This restores normal movement, and can stop pain and swelling. Horses that show signs of lameness, sore backs, sensitivity to the cinch, and difficulty in maintaining collection or executing lead changes may show improvement following chiropractic sessions.

If you think that your horse could benefit from a session with a physiotherapist or chiropractor, first consult with your veterinarian. When looking for a practitioner of either discipline, be sure they are registered and legally able to practice, and have them consult with your veterinarian prior to working on your horse. If you can’t find someone by word of mouth, try asking for a few referrals. Be aware that any medical treatment can be potentially harmful if done incorrectly, so anyone who handles your horse medically should be well trained and licensed to practice.

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Tips to Keep Your Horse from Being Herdbound

Horses are incredibly social creatures, instinctively driven to create strong social bonds with their herd mates. But these healthy relationships can turn into difficulties for you if your horse begins to value the company of his buddies over you. Herdbound horses are dangerous to themselves and their handlers because horses with severe issues will do anything to get back to their herd, including running away with a rider, kicking out, jumping fences, and breaking ties. They can be difficult to ride and work with, and a nightmare for the farrier to handle. Here are some tips to keep your horse from getting too attached to his herd.

Remove him from the herd on a regular basis, either to ride or simply to handle. Ride your horse alone in a riding ring, if you are uncomfortable taking him on a trail by yourself, or give him a good grooming session away from his buddies.
When on the trail with a group, occasionally break away from the group, either turning around or taking a different trail, and then hook up with them again. This will help to reassure your horse that he will see his friends again. Don’t let him race up to the group when they are in sight; instead keep him calm and walking, turning him around if he gets too upset.
While riding with a group, keep your horse’s mind occupied by actively working with him. Ask him to move back and forth on the trail, turn around, or move backwards. Keep his mind attuned to you.
Be assertive with your horse and remember that you are his leader. Don’t always let him make the decisions, especially when you are riding with other horses, or when you are letting him go in the pasture.
Develop a strong relationship with your horse, so that he knows he can trust you. If you are strong and confident, he will have more trust in your leadership and be more prepared to follow you into what, in his mind, may be dangerous situations.

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Introducing a New Horse to the Herd

Although some horse owners simply turn a new horse out with the herd and let the horses themselves work out their hierarchy, there are some things you can do when introducing a new horse to the herd that will help protect everyone’s safety. If at all possible, turn the new horse out in an adjacent field or paddock so that the horses can all get comfortable with one another while safely on either side of a fence. Once they have spent a few days checking each other out, you can try putting them out together. If you have one particularly dominant or aggressive horse in your herd, you might wish to remove him and let the new horse settle in with the others. When you release the dominant horse back into the herd, he’ll be the one entering a now relatively stable herd hierarchy. This will hopefully minimize his need to pick on the newcomer. You might also want to try taking the horses out on a ride together, where they can get to know each other in a controlled environment.

Turning the horses out together will carry some risk no matter how much you have prepared, so be sure that someone is on hand to deal with any situations that might arise. If the horses have enough room to move around, there should be few problems, as they will be able to keep moving if needed. However, if a horse gets cornered and can’t get away from a more aggressive herd mate, you may need to get involved. Carry a lunge whip with you just in case.

Try turning them out when they are hungry and hopefully they will be too interested in eating to be bothered with challenging one another. If possible, pull the hind shoes of horses that are spending time together in the field – this will prevent serious injury from misplaced kicks.

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Dealing With a Horse that’s Hard to Catch

There’s nothing quite as frustrating as standing in a large pasture with a halter and lead rope in your hand, watching your horse run away from you to the farthest corner. If your horse is difficult to catch, try the following training tips:

Visit the pasture often for brief visits, without approaching your horse. This will teach your horse that your presence does not necessarily mean work. Don’t approach your horse or make eye contact, and if your horse approaches you, let him sniff you, but walk away before he walks away from you. Remember – you are the decision maker.
Give your horse special treatment in the field, and don’t always take him out to be worked. A grooming session or massage, depending on what your horse likes, will be a nice treat and can be done in the field.
If your horse is wary of you approaching with a halter, then get in the habit of carrying the halter over your shoulder and make frequent visits to the field without trying to catch your horse. When he is ready, you can approach him with the halter without attempting to catch him. Slipping the halter over his head, leading him around for a moment, and then letting him go can also be useful in teaching him that a halter does not necessarily mean work.
Try leaving a breakaway halter on your horse while he is in the field. This may make it easier for you, rather than trying to get the halter over his head. A breakaway halter will snap should your horse become entangled, so if you do decide to let him loose in the field with a halter, definitely make sure it’s the breakaway kind. If you do have to halter your horse in the field, loop the lead rope around his neck first so that if he starts to move away you can guide him to a stop.
Be cautious of bribing your horse with treats. Feeding treats with other loose horses present can be very dangerous, as they will often crowd you as they anxiously try to get their share of the goodies. It is much better to train your horse properly than to rely on treats for good behavior.

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How to Buy and Store Hay

For many new horse owners, there is potentially nothing that puts you out of your depth more than feeding decisions. Buying and storing hay is no exception, and has the added difficulty that it can be a major investment, especially when buying large amounts to last the winter months. To reduce the chance of mold infestation that could cost you your entire investment and inflict serious harm to your horse, you will need to ensure that your hay is dry and mold free from start to finish.

When you are considering where to purchase your hay, be sure to inspect the quality of their products prior to laying down a lot of money. Take an experienced horse person with you who can help identify the signs of mold – bales that are dusty, discolored, darker than usual, or even white. Feeding dusty hay to a horse can cause serious problems, so be sure that the hay you are purchasing is dust-free. Talk to the seller and confirm that the hay was cut when it was dry. Physically check the bales to see if they seem dusty, damp, or if you can see any signs of discoloration or mold. You might want to smell the bale as well – good hay should smell sweet and look clean.

Do not have your hay delivered in wet weather – even if the hay is covered with tarps it will likely get wet as you transport it from the truck to the storage area. Also make sure your storage area or hay loft is clean and dry. If stacking on the ground, put your hay on pallets first. Try to avoid stacking hay against barn walls that may become wet with condensation. If you live in a particularly damp climate, or have a storage area that is difficult to keep dry, you might consider covering your stacked hay with a tarp, and using dehumidifiers and fans.

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How to Create a First Aid Kit for Horses

If your horse was injured in an emergency at the barn, would you have the essentials to handle the situation? Here’s a look at essential items for your first aid kit:

Key information about your horse. Record when he’s had his last shots, what he normally eats, and his normal resting pulse, respiration, and temperature.
Thermometer. Practice using it before your horse needs it, and make sure there is a clip and string so that it doesn’t disappear.
Scissors. Be sure to use rounded edge scissors, and keep them clean and sharp. In addition to cutting bandages and dressings, they can be useful for trimming the hair around wounds.
Antibacterial ointment. There are many good creams on the market that can be used for small cuts and scrapes.
Antibacterial or iodine wash. Hibitaine or Betadine are good options for washing cuts and scrapes and keeping them clean.
Gauze padding for wound dressing.
VetWrap. These bandages self-stick and are excellent for holding dressings and poultices into place.
Epsom salts. These are often used for soaking, in particular with hoof abscesses.
Duct tape. This is a good item to have on hand for stable emergencies, and can even be wrapped around a horse’s hoof should you lose a shoe. It can also be used to protect a dressing on your horse’s foot when healing from a hoof abscess.
Bute. If possible, it is a good idea to have some of this anti-inflammatory drug on hand for easing pain that your horse might be in. As with any prescription drug, use it only at the direction of your veterinarian and be aware that it can cause damage to internal organs and make some emergency situations worse.
Clean sponge and bucket for washing wounds and soaking feet.

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Navicular Syndrome in Horses

There are few words more terrifying to a horse owner than navicular disease. This destructive and potentially life threatening syndrome affects the navicular bone in the horse’s hoof. Veterinarians are still at a loss as to what causes the disease, which means that it is difficult to prevent and even diagnose. However, once your vet has narrowed down navicular as the source of your horse’s lameness, it is important to know that there are still options for your horse.

Corrective trimming and shoeing of the affected hoof is of absolute importance. Many horses have done well with different types of treatment, so work closely with your farrier to determine what is going to have the best results for your horse. Bute, a pain killer and anti-inflammatory, can help to make your horse more comfortable, particularly in the earlier stages.

Depending on the suspected cause of your horse’s problem, your vet may wish to work on increasing circulation to the navicular area, sometimes by giving the horse warfarin, an anticoagulant. Watch your horse carefully when using this drug, as it inhibits blood clotting in the entire body, putting your horse at risk for blood loss in the event of cutting or bruising. If your horse is in the later stages, a neurectomy may be the last resort. In this case, the nerve to the foot is cut, causing complete numbness. Because the horse will lose all feeling in his foot, it is imperative that he not be ridden.

With constant advances in veterinary science and corrective/therapeutic shoeing, navicular does not have to be the terrifying disease that it once was. Some horses can and do respond very well to treatment, and continue to live a pain-free and happy life.

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How to Bathe a Horse

Ready to give your horse a summer bath? Try the following tips for a smooth and easy experience.

Have a friend hold onto your horse, as opposed to tying him up, especially if this is a new experience for him.
Allow your horse to become comfortable with the sound of the hose before using it on him. Use a very gentle spray and start with his feet and legs to get him comfortable before moving up to the body. Always aim the spray away from your horse’s head.
Once the neck and body are wet, you can use a brush or grooming mitt to work the shampoo into a lather. Make sure to generate lots of suds and don’t be afraid to rinse and lather again if your horse is really dirty.
When rinsing, start at the neck and work your way down the body and legs. Be sure to keep rinsing until the soap disappears because any that is left may cause his skin to dry out and his coat to dull.
Use a sweat scraper to remove excess water before towel drying. You might wish to walk your horse dry at this point or throw a light cooler on him and put him back in his stall.
When bathing tails, remember to hold the tail to the side of the horse. Use a bucket to soak the tail, shampoo, and finally rinse. You might wish to use a conditioning product to make the tail easier to comb out afterwards. Be cautious of being kicked, or smacked with a wet tail.
Wash your horse’s head and face carefully with a damp sponge to avoid running soap and water into his eyes.

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Should I Feed My Horse Treats?

Hand-feeding treats to horses is a rather controversial subject. While some horse owners have no difficulty with giving treats to their horses, others find themselves with pushy, nippy animals who become dangerous in their quest for snacks. How do you safely feed treats to your horse without causing bad behaviour? First and foremost, you need to know your horse. Watch his behaviour carefully when you hand-feed treats, and be prepared to stop should you witness any behavioural changes, however slight. Even calm and quiet horses can become food monsters when there are treats to be had, so consider the following safety tips before doling out the goodies:

The safest way to feed treats is in a bucket. Not only does it protect your fingers from any stray nips, but it will also prevent your horse from associating your hands with treats.
Never feed treats in a situation where you have several loose horses around you. You may think you are being sly, but the others will quickly figure out what is going on and you may wind up being crowded or even knocked over by the eager horses.
Your horse will remember how you have fed him in the past. I know one person who allowed the horses in the barn to help themselves to carrots that she had sticking out of the chest pockets on her coat. Not surprisingly, the horses became nippy at people’s chests, creating a potentially dangerous situation.
Be cautious of overfeeding. A nice pat or rubdown is just as good a treat as a carrot stick. You will want to avoid filling your horse’s stomach with sweet, sugary snacks, preventing him from eating the food his body really needs.

Treats are definitely ok to give to horses, but as with anything, use common sense and moderation.

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How to Make a Bran Mash for Your Horse

Feeding a bran mash to hard working horses is a tradition that has been passed down to horseman throughout generations. When overfed, bran mashes can actually have a damaging effect on your horse, but when given occasionally, they can be a warm and tasty treat. Bran mashes also act as a laxative, and can be good for horses with digestive problems or those prone to colic. Because of the sweet taste, a mash can also successfully hide medications. Be cautious however, as mashes can cause calcium imbalances. They should never be fed more than twice a week, and should be fed with caution to horses under three. If you have any concerns about your horse’s diet, speak with your vet before adding anything new.

What you’ll need:

3 lbs bran (either wheat or rice)
¼ cup molasses
1 cup grated carrot
4 cups hot water (approximately)

Slowly combine the water and bran in a large bucket. Once thoroughly mixed, add the molasses and carrot. For a different taste, try substituting apple sauce and diced apple for the molasses and carrot. Then add any supplements, such as flax seed or medications, and allow the mixture to cool before feeding.

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Things to Consider When Choosing a Boarding Facility

With so many boarding stables available, it can be a tricky job to pick the right one for you and your horse. Here’s a list to help you discover what you and your horse will need.

Price. As much as we hate to admit it, price usually plays a factor, just as it does in where we choose to live with our families. Look at your finances to see how much you can reasonably afford each month.
Location. You will need to decide how far away from your home or work you’re willing to board your horse. Some horse owners don’t mind driving long distances to their barn, however if you go there often, or if there is an emergency requiring you to do daily doctoring, this could prove difficult.
Your horse’s special needs. Does your horse require special food? Does he have special housing needs, like the need to be kept outside to prevent an episode of heaves? Is he used to being turned out on pasture, or will a paddock make him happy?
Riding opportunities. Is it important that the barn have an arena for you to use? If so, consider the benefits of a covered arena. Without good drainage, an outdoor arena will be useless through periods of heavy rain. Are trails more your speed? How easy is it to get to the trails from the barn and are the trails suitable for you and your horse’s trail experience?
Competitive opportunities. Are you looking for good trainers and lots of showing? If so, a larger, more competitive-focused barn may be right for you. Or are you looking for a quiet place where you and your horse can bond with minimal distractions?

Once you have a list of priorities in hand, the prospect of stable hunting won’t seem so overwhelming.

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How to Choose the Right Boarding Stable for Your Horse

If, like many horse owners, you are unable to care for your horse on your own property, then you will need to search for a boarding stable that can house your horse and give him the daily care that he needs.

The first thing to do when looking for a new boarding facility is to make up a list of needs, for both you and your horse. Once you have your list, you can begin your search. Don’t just check the local yellow pages - talk to other horse people such as owners, vets and farriers. They will likely be able to refer you to places, and may even have inside knowledge as well.

Once you are ready to start visiting farms, the most important thing to keep in mind is your horse’s health and safety. When you are touring a potential barn, be sure to check for clean and dry stalls, well ventilated barns, a good insect control program, clean water buckets, and stalls and paddocks that are free from dangerous debris. Find out what kind of feed you can expect your horse to get, and also what the turnout is like. Try to talk to other boarders if possible, as they will likely fill you in on the pros and cons of the stable without much prodding. Do the horses there look happy and in good condition?

Finally, when you are ready to make that all important decision, go over the contract with a fine toothed comb. Be suspicious if the barn doesn’t have a contract – this could result in board fees being raised or even you and your horse being evicted without warning. Finding a new home for your horse may seem like a daunting task but with some patience, planning, and a lot of common sense, you’ll find that special place in no time.

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Getting Your Horse Acquainted with a Trailer

Being able to quietly and easily load into a trailer is an important skill that all horses should have. Whether a natural disaster that requires evacuation or a medical emergency that means a trip to a veterinary hospital, your horse may be at risk if he cannot easily walk into a trailer.

It is important to never use pain or fear to threaten a horse into the trailer, as this will cause him to fight even harder upon the next occurrence. The best option is to prepare your horse ahead of time by desensitizing him to the presence and potential scariness of the trailer.

Park your trailer in a corral or riding ring, and ensure that it is secure. Make the trailer a friendly place by feeding your horse his hay at the bottom edge of the trailer ramp. As he gets comfortable, move the hay farther up the ramp until it is actually in the trailer. Continue with this process until the horse actually has to enter the trailer in order to feed. Be aware that this is a slow and gradual process that can take upwards of a month to show results. However, the time you spend on this now will result in big payoffs down the road when he easily walks into the trailer with no fear. You will want to continue this process as you see fit, so that he does not fall back into old habits.

To keep the trailering experience positive, be sure to never rush or force him inside. As the driver, always be conscious that you are pulling him behind you because many horses become frightened with sharp turns and sudden stops, which can result in future headaches. With patience and practice, your horse’s trailering experience can be as easy as 1-2-3!

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Preparing Your Horse for the Clippers

If you want to use clippers to prepare your horse for a show or to get his winter coat under control, you’ll need to make sure he is thoroughly prepared for what is, to most horses, a very scary experience. As with any training, take your time and don’t rush the process - it may take several days before you can actually clip your horse. Start by turning the clippers on in the barn, but not next to your horse, so that he can get comfortable with the sound. Gradually bring the clippers closer and watch how he reacts. Keep the clippers out of sight, and feed him some treats. Once he appears to be taking no notice of the sound, you can begin to bring the clippers in sight of the horse. As he accepts this, you can begin to rub him with the vibrating clippers, although not actually clipping at this point. When he is calm and comfortable, you can slowly start to clip. Most horses are simply frightened of the noise and desensitization to the sound quickly removes any fear. However, horses that are ticklish and find the actual clipping to be unpleasant are harder to work with. If at any time you feel threatened by your horse’s reactions, contact an experienced horse-person or trainer for assistance. Remember that pushing the horse into a state of panic will not cause him to learn anything except that he truly has something to fear. Also be aware that if your horse panics and you turn the clippers off, he will have learned that by panicking and threatening you, the clippers disappear. Take it slow and end each session on a positive note and you’ll find that the entire process will go much more smoothly.

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How to Treat a Hoof Abscess

If you find your horse suddenly and acutely lame, and he can barely put pressure on the affected foot, it’s very possible he has a hoof abscess. The first thing to do in a case like this is to call your vet or farrier. After using hoof-testers to locate the abscess, they will cut open the infected pocket and drain it, giving your horse instant relief. Keeping the foot clean is vital for the healing process. First soak your horse’s foot in Epsom salts and warm water at least once per day and then, placing a gauze pad soaked in iodine and table sugar on the infected area, wrap with a VetWrap bandage. To keep the horse’s foot dry, put a plastic bag over the hoof and wrap with duct tape. This will keep the foot dry even in the wet bedding of the stall, and the duct tape will keep your horse from ripping it open. Alternatively, you could use a poultice boot.

You will need to keep up this routine until your horse’s hoof stops smelling of infection, usually about 5 days or so. Keep your horse in a clean, dry stall during this recovery time. If your vet or farrier can’t find the abcess, you’ll need to have x-rays taken. Once the possibility of a fracture has been ruled out, poultice the hoof until the abscess drains on its own, either on the sole or the coronet. You’ll notice immediate improvement when it bursts, as your horse will immediately begin to put pressure on the infected hoof. Before finishing with the bandaging, you may wish to have your vet or farrier back for a follow-up visit to ensure that everything has healed properly.

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