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Safely Leading Your Horse

Working with horses on the ground can be just as dangerous as riding, with the possibility of a horse stepping on or knocking over their handler. Here are some tips on how to safely lead your horse on the ground.

  • Stand on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope close to his face in your right hand. Gather the excess lead rope and fold it into your left hand. Don’t allow it to drag on the ground as either you or the horse could trip or become entangled.
  • Walk at the horse’s shoulder, giving a gentle tug to ask him to move forward and a firm backward pull to ask him to stop. To turn, twist your hand in the direction you wish to go.
  • Don’t let your horse lag too far behind. If he spooks he could run you over. Avoid letting your horse get too far ahead where he can either drag you or kick out with his back feet.
  • Never wrap the excess lead rope around your hand. If your horse spooks, you could be dragged. For the same reason, do not lead a horse by putting your hand inside his halter.
  • Choose a lead rope that is wide enough to be comfortable in your hand, and that won’t give you rope burn should the horse pull it through your fingers
  • Don’t store your lead rope where it is damp, as they are susceptible to mold, and don’t leave it where your horse can chew on it.
  • Avoid using snaps that have rusted, as they will be difficult to get on and off.
  • Remember, your lead rope isn’t leading your horse, you are! If your horse is not respectful when being led, he needs more training and practice to learn how to be more mannerly.
Filed Under: Horse Behavior, Horse Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Horse Behavior, Horse Care, Horse Safety

Trail Riding Safety During Hunting Season

Riders who board their horses near the city and stay on relatively urban trails probably never have to worry about riding during hunting season.  However, if you ride your horse in a shared use area that is open to hunters, you must take measures to ensure that you and your horse are not confused with a hunter’s target.  Although it is the hunter’s responsibility to confirm his prey before pulling the trigger, mistakes can happen and every year horses and people are shot by mistake.  Here are some tips on keeping you and your horse safe during hunting season.

  • If at all possible, avoid areas that are well-known hunting locations.  It is best not to take the risk that you or your horse will wind up catching a stray bullet.
  • Wear bright colors to help hunters distinguish you from their prey.  Fix brightly colored flagging tape to your horse’s saddle and bridle, and be sure to wear a bright cover on your helmet and bright clothing.  If you don’t have a brightly colored shirt or jacket, try using flagging tape to make armbands.  Bright orange or lime green are probably your best options.
  • When your horse moves through the brush, he will make noise in the same fashion as large game.  To make sure that hunters don’t mistake the sound of your horse, try a large cowbell attached to the saddle or halter.  This will make a very distinctive noise that will carry quite far.  If you can’t find a cowbell, take bear bells and either talk or sing loudly.
  • Stay on designated trails, as these are unlikely areas for hunters to be active.
  • Try riding at midday, as most hunters are out in the early morning or early evening.  Also, your bright colors will be at their most effective in the midday sun.
  • Avoid heavily forested areas wherever possible.

Remember, not all hunters are law abiding and follow the rules.  Even when hunting is not allowed, be prepared for poachers.  Any time you ride out in the bush, make sure you and your horse stand out.

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Leg Protection for Your Horse

Depending on what type of training you do with your horse, you may find that his legs require additional protection from scrapes and bruising.  Here are several of the most common types of leg boots and wraps available, and their uses.

  • Bell boots.  Usually made of thick rubber, these boots fasten at the fetlock and hang down over the top of a horse’s hoof.  They are primarily used with horses that, for one reason or another, are at risk of over-reaching, hitting their front foot with their hind one when moving out.  These can prevent cuts and lameness on the front feet, and also protect shoes from being pulled.
  • Tendon Boots.  Typically used in show jumping, these boots protect a horse’s legs from damage when hitting the rails of a jump.  It is important not to fit boots too tightly, as this can cause pressure and damage to the canon bone.  However, also beware of doing the boots up too loosely and allowing them to slip.
  • Travel Boots.  These are typically fitted to the front and back legs and are used when trailering a horse to prevent damage from them banging their legs while in transit or when loading or unloading.
  • Hoof Boots.  These boots, made to fit over a horse’s entire hoof, act as an alternative to a horseshoe.  They are useful should a horse throw a shoe, and can also be used on barefoot horses when trail riding to provide protection to their feet.  Additionally, hoof boots are often used when poulticing a hoof injury.

Remember to get your horse comfortable with the boots first before putting them on, and always do up your straps from back to front.  Fastening too tightly can cause pressure and cut off circulation, but too loosely can allow the boots to slip and cause your horse to stumble and possibly injure himself.  If you are unsure about how to properly put on a boot, talk to an experienced horse person or trainer.

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Your Horse’s Pulse, Respiration and Temperature

Since many ailments are more easily treatable with early detection, being able to catch early warning signs that something is changing in your horse’s body is vitally important.  All horse owners should know their horse’s resting heart rate, respiration, and temperature.

To check your horse’s pulse, find an artery close to the skin and count the number of beats per minute.  One of the easiest to find is the maxillary artery which lies under the jawbone.  A normal resting horse will have a pulse of approximately 30 – 40 beats per minute.  The digital artery in your horse’s fetlock is another important one to check regularly.  In a resting horse the artery can be hard to find.  However, a throbbing, racing pulse here can be an early sign of laminitis.

Measuring your horse’s rate of respiration can be a little trickier, particularly in a resting horse.  The best method is to use a stethoscope on the horse’s trachea, on his neck just under the throatlatch area.  The ratio of pulse to respiration should be anywhere from 4:1 to 2:1.  If his respiration matches or exceeds his pulse, then your horse is suffering from oxygen deprivation and stress.

Temperature is another key indicator that something is not quite right in your horse’s body.  To measure his temperature you will need a thermometer designed for horses, coated with a lubricant.  It is a good idea to secure a string to the end of the thermometer to ensure it doesn’t get lost.  Move your horse’s tail to the side and gently insert the thermometer at a slightly upward angle.  After approximately two minutes, you can remove it and read your horse’s temperature.  A normal body temperature should be 99 – 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and abnormally high or low temperatures are indicators that something may be wrong.

Filed Under: Disease and Illness, Horse Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Horse Safety

Dealing with a Snakebite

If you live and ride in an area with poisonous snakes, it is vital to know how to handle a potentially deadly snakebite.  Here’s what to do if your horse gets bitten.

  • Call your vet.  This is an emergency situation that requires immediate attention.  Most bites occur on the horse’s muzzle, and the resulting swelling can cause them to have breathing and swallowing difficulties.  If left too long, the venom can also cause more severe symptoms such as fainting and irregular heartbeats, and bring on side effects such as laminitis.
  • Avoid moving your horse as much as possible.  Keep him quiet in his stall until the vet arrives.  The more he moves, the more toxins he’ll absorb into his bloodstream.
  • If you can do so safely, identify the snake that bit your horse.  If you can’t identify it, remember what it looks like.  This will help your vet know what to expect from the venom.
  • Don’t try to treat the wound yourself.  Cutting the wound open and attempting to get the poison out rarely works and will risk further infection to your horse.  Applying heat or ice to the wound may cause tissue damage.
  • Be prepared to tell your vet when your horse last had his tetanus shot.

Many horses do not receive enough venom in the bite to actually be fatal, although if left untreated, they may be at risk of secondary infections and conditions.  When there is a high amount of toxin administered, only about 25% of cases are fatal.  Your veterinarian will perform a blood test to determine whether your horse requires anti-venom, and whether his body will accept it without a negative reaction.  He will then administer it intravenously and also inject it around the wound site.  This tissue will slough away, leaving an open wound that will require care for the next several weeks. 

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What to Do When Your Horse Visits the Veterinarian

Even if your horse is incredibly healthy, he will likely experience a vet exam at least once a year for vaccinations and dental work.  All horses should know how to stand calmly and be examined by your veterinarian.  Here are some things to bear in mind, to keep both you and your horse safe and unstressed during a vet visit.

  • If at all possible, exercise your horse prior to the vet’s arrival, particularly if he is stabled.  Once he gets all his excess energy out he’ll be a much easier horse to handle.
  • Practice touching your horse all over his body, and get him comfortable with being poked and prodded.  Play with his mouth, handle his ears, feel his legs.
  • Be prepared for the vet’s arrival with a clean horse.  Your vet doesn’t want to have to handle a dirty horse, and in fact, a dirty coat can mask problems such as skin infections.  Your vet will want to see your horse at his best.
  • During the exam, stand on the same side of your horse as your vet.  You’ll be able to talk more easily, and if your horse spooks there is less chance of one of you getting hurt.
  • Give your vet plenty of room to work and don’t forget good lighting.  Have the area cleared and ready to go.  If your stall is too small or dark, be prepared and have another more suitable area ready.
  • Know where your power outlets are, as well as running water.  Have warm water available if possible, even if it is only by bringing a small kettle with you.
  • Try to keep calm.  Your horse will easily pick up on your stress levels.  If you are calm and confident, there is a good chance he will be too.
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Tying your horse

Most horse owners routinely tie up their horses, whether during grooming, tacking up, or just to keep the horse secure while they attend to something else.  However, if not done correctly, this seemingly simple and everyday practice could be putting you and your horse in a very dangerous situation. 

Always tie your horse with a quick release knot.  If you aren’t sure how to do this, ask a friend to show you, or check horse care books or websites.  Most will have diagrams that you can use to practice.  Should your horse spook or pull away, it is imperative that the knot collapse, otherwise your horse will panic at being trapped and could seriously injure himself or others.  As he pulls, he’ll tighten the rope making it difficult to get a non-quick release knot undone.  Never tie your horse by his bridle.  As he pulls to get free he could severely injure his mouth.

Don’t tie to any object that is not secure.  Fences are the best option, using the fence post rather than the rail.  If your horse pulls, he should not be able to drag anything away with him.  Check posts before tying to make sure that they aren’t rotten or inadequately secured into the ground.  Wherever possible, keep the rope chest high to avoid it dangling around your horse’s legs and tripping him. 

If you are tying your horse to your trailer or using cross-ties remember to always use quick release clasps.  These clasps are made to release when met with sudden force.  This way, if the horse pulls its head quickly, trying to get free, the clasp will open.  They are also easier to release a spooked horse as it just takes a quick pull to get them loose.  Check clasps regularly to ensure that they don’t become rusty.

Filed Under: Grooming, Horse Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Grooming, Horse Care, Horse Safety

Dealing with a Cast Horse

If you’ve ever seen a horse that has cast himself, you’re not likely to forget the sight. Although it doesn’t happen often, this is an emergency situation that is possible for every horse owner to find themselves in.  Sometimes a horse will misjudge how much room they have when they lie down or roll near the wall of their stall or a fence.  Their legs get trapped and they have no way of pushing themselves away or getting their feet back up from under them.

Should you find yourself in this startling situation, consider your own safety first.  If at all possible, don’t try to deal with the horse on your own.  If he isn’t thrashing too much, get close to your horse and pull his head away from the wall.  This may give him enough room to scramble back to his feet.  If not, try pulling the head and tail at the same time.  If your horse is panicked and thrashing, try looping a leadshank around the hind area and pull him forward.

Another tactic is to pull the horse’s feet, rolling him over and allowing him the space to get up. If your horse is quiet, you can probably do this by hand but if needed, a lead rope can also be looped around a leg for the same effect.

Be aware that as soon as your horse is able, he will want to scramble to his feet and will likely be nervous, agitated, and may even kick out.  Make sure that you think ahead and have a quick escape route in place for when your horse does get free.  Once he is up and calm, check him over for any scrapes or cuts, and walk him out for a few minutes to watch for lameness.

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Prevent Toxic Hay from Harming Your Horse

Few things have more potential to seriously damage your horse’s health than his feed.  Whether it’s moldy or dusty hay, toxic plants, or simply the type of hay, what your horse ingests will have serious implications on his overall well-being.  It is important, first and foremost, to feed your horse hay that is compatible with his body’s needs.  Different types of hay will have different levels of proteins and sugars, and not all are good for every horse.  For instance, if your horse is prone to episodes of laminitis, then it is best to feed a low sugar and low protein hay, such as a local grass hay or even timothy.  However, if your horse is working hard and in competitive training, you may need to feed a higher energy feed such as alfalfa.  Usually you will wind up feeding some type of combination, but just be aware that what you are feeding your horse could be making him sick.  Check with your veterinarian about the best type of hay for your horse.

Once you have narrowed down what you are looking for, you’ll need to find a supplier.  Be sure to inspect their bales for evidence of mold or toxic plants.  Walk their fields if at all possible to look for toxic plants that grow in your area.  Hay bales should be weed free, but if you do find plants in your hay, remove anything that you aren’t sure of.  You can also try over-feeding your horse slightly, as he will have some ability to choose not to eat the toxic plants.  If you are feeding alfalfa, be aware of blister beetles – horses only need to ingest a few of these poisonous insects to become seriously ill.  Don’t buy alfalfa that has been crimped – in this process the beetles are crushed, causing the toxin to spread into the hay.

The best hay bales will be green, sweet smelling, and free of unwanted plants.

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Deworming Your Horse

If you want to keep your horse happy, healthy, and free from energy sucking parasites, it is vital to implement a deworming routine that is both varied and regular.  Most horses should be dewormed about every two months.  If your barn typically has new horses arriving all the time, or if your horse is either very young or very old, you might wish to talk to your veterinarian about a more frequent deworming schedule.  Conversely, if your horse spends most of his time in a large pasture with a relatively stable herd and few newcomers, then you might be able to decrease the regularity to just a few times per year.

It is important to remember that not all deworming products kill all worms.  There is even some evidence to suggest that over time worms can develop a resistance to particular products.  Therefore, it is important to change your dewormer throughout the year.  Each time you treat your horse, you should be using a product that deals with strongyles, roundworms, and pinworms.  Once per year you should use a product that also handles tapeworms, and twice per year one that takes care of bots, if you live in affected areas.

It’s best to use an ivermectin product in late spring and early fall to deal with bots and other worms, and Strongid P in the summer for tapeworms.  The remaining treatments can alternate with different products – try checking with your vet to find out what works best in your area.  Dewormers are conveniently sold in paste form, so the procedure should be relatively simple.  Just be sure to do it before feeding time, or else rinse his mouth with water and a clean syringe, or the paste may get caught up with his food and be spit out.  Be sure to get the paste all the way back or it will spill out all over the floor, and likely on you too!  For particularly finicky horses there are many new flavored products available as well.

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Trail Riding Safety

For many horse enthusiasts, sharing a trail with an equine companion is the closest thing to heaven to be found here on earth.  But without the right preparation, even small emergencies can turn that blissful ride into a nightmare.  Always let someone know where you will be riding and how long you expect to be gone for.  Some barns even hang a clipboard that riders can sign in and out on, ensuring that no one accidentally gets missed.  Depending on where you ride, wildlife might also be an issue.  You may need to work with your horse to get him comfortable with hanging bear bells from either the saddle or bridle. 

Keep your saddlebags stocked with extra items so you don’t have to pack for each ride – this will save time and keep you from forgetting any vital items.  However, always keep your most important emergency items, such as a cell phone, attached to your belt in case you are separated from your horse.  A hoofpick is necessary for dealing with stones lodged in your horse’s feet.  A small emergency first aid kit, including disinfectant wipes, gauze pads, bandages, and antibacterial ointment is also a good idea.  Baling twine can come in handy for broken straps, particularly on bridles. 

As riders we tend to look out for our horse’s well-being first, but don’t forget to pack for your own needs as well.  A bottle of water and small snack can make your ride more comfortable.  Much of your horse’s first aid kit will likely prove useful to yourself in an emergency, but you might also wish to carry a small personal first aid kit with you.  And of course it goes without saying, a proper fitting helmet is a must.  Happy trails! 

Filed Under: Horse Safety, Riding Tagged With: horse riding, Horse Safety, horseback riding, riding safety

Safety Tips for Horseback Riding at Night

Riding at night can be extremely dangerous, and should always be done with caution.  However, should you find yourself caught after the sun goes down, or if you are intent on taking your horse out for a moonlit ride, it is important to be prepared.  Have a flashlight with you, or even better, a headlamp worn on your helmet.  Make sure that your horse is used to the flashlight, and don’t shine it into his face.  Have reflectors on your clothing, and also on your horse’s saddle and bridle, and wear light-colored outerwear.  Do not ride on roadways unless it cannot be avoided – a dark horse and rider are extremely hard for motorists to see.  Ride with a buddy, and make sure you stay together and that you’ve told someone where you are going to be riding.  Ride in areas that you know well, and try to stay where there is at least some light from the moon.  Keep your horses to a walk, and be aware that although your horse can see better than you can in the dark, the world will still look different to him, and he may spook more than usual.  Wildlife typically are more active after the sun goes down, so carry bells to make some noise, and keep to well-traveled trails. 

The best way to enjoy a ride under the full moon is in an outdoor arena, where your horse is safely contained and help is close at hand should you fall off.  Although the appeal of night riding may be strong, always consider safety first, both for you and your horse.

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Bareback Riding Safety

Learning to ride without the security of a saddle or stirrups might seem like a scary proposition, but it can actually help you to bond more closely with your horse and improve your seat at the same time.  With bareback riding there is a greater chance of falling, so be sure to always wear your helmet and know how to dismount properly.  It may be tempting to use a bareback pad, with or without stirrups, however they can easily slip and cause a dangerous situation, or lead to bad habits and a poor seat.  Start out with a calm quiet horse - you might want to borrow a friend’s horse if yours is a little too wild – so that you can get a handle on how it feels to have the horse moving directly under you.  For additional safety, have someone lead the horse so that you can concentrate on your balance, and not on controlling or guiding the horse.  You will want to use a sturdy mounting block to get on, and make sure you have correct seat positioning before moving forward.  Start out at a walk, and slowly advance to a trot as you feel more comfortable.  Do not attempt cantering until you are completely comfortable at the trot, and consider having a friend lunge your horse so that you don’t have to worry so much about control.  If you feel yourself start to slip, try grabbing hold of your horse’s mane – this is much safer for your horse than using the reins for balance, which could hurt his mouth.  Try not to clench suddenly with your legs, as your horse may interpret that as a cue to move forward.  With a little safety and lots of practice, bareback can easily become a favourite way to ride!

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Preventing Barn Fires

Barn fires are, sadly, the leading disaster that horse owners encounter.  Fire prevention is key so, first and foremost, prohibit smoking on the property - a carelessly discarded cigarette can spark a fire in a matter of seconds.  Don’t use appliances, such as space heaters, without supervision.  Conduct routine inspections of your electrical systems.  Do not store flammable materials near the barn, and also keep machinery, which can spark, a safe distance from the horses.  Finally, ensure that you store hay only when it is dry, as wet hay has been known to spontaneously combust when tightly stacked.  Because hay can be such a flammable material, it is always best to store it away from the barn wherever possible.

It is also important to be prepared for the potential of a fire.  Have emergency contacts posted at the entrances to the barn, and include the barn’s address should a 911 call be required.  Also make sure that the address is clearly visible from the street.  Keep fire extinguishers on hand, and have an evacuation route, which is also clearly communicated to all barn members, available for each stall.

Should a fire break out, immediately call 911 if your region has this service.  Do not attempt to enter the barn unless it is safe to do so.  If you do, start evacuating the horses that are closest to the exit.  Use a halter and leadrope, and do not blindfold unless absolutely necessary.  Evacuate each horse to an area that is far enough from the fire to be safe, but close enough for easy access, and do not turn them loose as they may run back into the barn.  Even if your horse appears uninjured, have them checked by a veterinarian in case of smoke inhalation, and be prepared for stress reactions such as colic.

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Is Your Horse Prepared for Emergency or Disaster?

Are you prepared to evacuate your horse should there be a natural disaster in your area?  Take a look at the following checklist to see what you might be missing.

  1. Ensure your horse knows how to trailer quickly and quietly.  In many situations, time is of the essence, and whether you can get your horse out fast will determine whether you can get him out at all.  If your horse doesn’t know how to load, practice until he does.
  2. If you don’t have a trailer, or not enough trailer space for all your horses, make arrangements with another horse owner, preferably someone close by, who will be willing to haul your horse in an emergency.
  3. Make arrangements for a safe haven for you and your horses.  This will preferably be some distance from where your horse is currently, and may even be out of state.  Although traveling might be difficult in a disaster situation, you also don’t want to risk that your safe haven is also under threat.
  4. Have several days’ worth of food, water, and medication on hand and ready to be packed.
  5. Your horse’s information should be easily and quickly accessible, and preferably in a plastic, watertight envelope.  Have his photograph, medical records, and your contact information included.
  6. Post your evacuation instructions, as well as all your emergency contact information, in the barn and at your horse’s stall.
  7. Always have halters available in an easily accessible place, and keep a water-proof tag on each halter with the horse’s name and your contact information, including your emergency contact.
  8. Make sure your first aid kit is portable.
  9. In some situations, you may not be able to leave with your horses.  Research your area’s disaster plans, and also contact your local disaster planning organization to find out in what situations your horses would be better left secure in the stable or loose in the field.
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Creating a First Aid Kit for Your Stable (For People)

It’s not only your horse that can suffer in an emergency at the stable.  Be sure that you and your fellow riders are well prepared by keeping the following items well-stocked:

  1. Self-adhesive bandages.  This will probably be the most used item, so check the supply often and be sure that you replenish as needed.  Keep all different sizes of bandages on hand and consider different shapes as well, such as butterfly bandages.
  2. Non-adherent pads.  These can be used with medical tape to dress larger wounds without causing further damage from stickiness.
  3. Cleansing wipes.  These are important for swabbing wounds clean prior to bandaging, particularly if your barn has no access to hot running water.
  4. Adhesive tape.  This will be used to hold dressings in place.
  5. Gauze pads and bandages.  Used for larger wounds, these can have many functions including cleaning, staunching blood flow, and dressing a wound until further attention can be sought.
  6. Gloves.  Try vinyl to avoid latex allergies.
  7. Tweezers.  Invaluable for slivers, something that always seems to happen around the barn!
  8. A well stocked medicine chest, including anti-inflammatory tablets, pain killers, antacids, and other medication that might be needed.
  9. Eye drops or natural tears.  If at all possible, keep an eye flush available, or at least some form of lubrication, should anyone get dirt or chemicals in their eye.
  10.  Cold/warm compresses.  Use these for heating or cooling swelling as needed.
  11. Emergency blankets.  Should someone go into shock, an emergency blanket can keep them warm until help arrives. 

Other useful items include hand sanitizer, antibacterial ointment for cuts and scrapes, and a clean, sharp pair of scissors.  You might also wish to have nail clippers, safety pins, and a few clean towels available for use.

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How to Create a First Aid Kit for Horses

If your horse was injured in an emergency at the barn, would you have the essentials to handle the situation?  Here’s a look at essential items for your first aid kit:

  1. Key information about your horse.  Record when he’s had his last shots, what he normally eats, and his normal resting pulse, respiration, and temperature.
  2.  Thermometer.  Practice using it before your horse needs it, and make sure there is a clip and string so that it doesn’t disappear.
  3.  Scissors.  Be sure to use rounded edge scissors, and keep them clean and sharp.  In addition to cutting bandages and dressings, they can be useful for trimming the hair around wounds.
  4. Antibacterial ointment.  There are many good creams on the market that can be used for small cuts and scrapes. 
  5.  Antibacterial or iodine wash.  Hibitaine or Betadine are good options for washing cuts and scrapes and keeping them clean.
  6.  Gauze padding for wound dressing.
  7.  VetWrap.  These bandages self-stick and are excellent for holding dressings and poultices into place.
  8. Epsom salts.  These are often used for soaking, in particular with hoof abscesses. 
  9.  Duct tape.  This is a good item to have on hand for stable emergencies, and can even be wrapped around a horse’s hoof should you lose a shoe.  It can also be used to protect a dressing on your horse’s foot when healing from a hoof abscess.
  10. Bute.  If possible, it is a good idea to have some of this anti-inflammatory drug on hand for easing pain that your horse might be in.  As with any prescription drug, use it only at the direction of your veterinarian and be aware that it can cause damage to internal organs and make some emergency situations worse.
  11. Clean sponge and bucket for washing wounds and soaking feet.
Filed Under: Horse Care, Horse Safety Tagged With: Horse Care, Horse Safety

How to Trailer Your Horse in a Hurry

When an emergency presents itself, you may find you and your horse unprepared for a trailer ride.  In this case, there are a couple of methods that can be used to force a horse into a trailer without causing pain. 

Sedatives may seem an easy answer, however these should only be a last resort as they make it difficult for the horse to maintain his equilibrium.  Instead, try gentle pushing.  If the horse is calm, two people can push his hindquarters to see if he will move forward.  If this doesn’t work, butt ropes may be effective.  In this case, two long lead ropes are passed around the horse’s hind end, with a person standing on both sides of the trailer.  As the handlers pull on the ropes, they tighten over the horse’s hindquarters and encourage him to step forward into the trailer.  If he spooks, the handlers can drop the ropes immediately so that he does not become tangled up. 

Be aware that some horses will kick when they are pushed into the trailer.  Also, they are likely to leap forward rather than to walk in slowly, so the handler at the front of the trailer should be prepared for this. 

Some horses will happily load into a trailer once one of their well-trained buddies calmly loads ahead of them.  This can be an effective method for horses that are closely bound to their herdmates, however it will likely only work when the horse is calm to begin with. 

Keeping all handlers calm, quiet and persistent is the key to preventing the horse from becoming agitated.  Once a horse panics, it can be difficult to bring him down to a point where he can calmly consider the trailer again.  Go as slowly as possible, and never hit or yell at your horse.

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Getting Your Horse Acquainted with a Trailer

Being able to quietly and easily load into a trailer is an important skill that all horses should have.  Whether a natural disaster that requires evacuation or a medical emergency that means a trip to a veterinary hospital, your horse may be at risk if he cannot easily walk into a trailer. 

 It is important to never use pain or fear to threaten a horse into the trailer, as this will cause him to fight even harder upon the next occurrence.  The best option is to prepare your horse ahead of time by desensitizing him to the presence and potential scariness of the trailer. 

Park your trailer in a corral or riding ring, and ensure that it is secure.  Make the trailer a friendly place by feeding your horse his hay at the bottom edge of the trailer ramp.  As he gets comfortable, move the hay farther up the ramp until it is actually in the trailer.  Continue with this process until the horse actually has to enter the trailer in order to feed.  Be aware that this is a slow and gradual process that can take upwards of a month to show results.  However, the time you spend on this now will result in big payoffs down the road when he easily walks into the trailer with no fear.  You will want to continue this process as you see fit, so that he does not fall back into old habits. 

To keep the trailering experience positive, be sure to never rush or force him inside.  As the driver, always be conscious that you are pulling him behind you because many horses become frightened with sharp turns and sudden stops, which can result in future headaches.  With patience and practice, your horse’s trailering experience can be as easy as 1-2-3!

Filed Under: Horse Trailers Tagged With: Horse Care, Horse Safety, Horse Trailers

Pregnancy and Horseback Riding

For many women horse owners there is not much that can keep them from the barn.  But what happens if you find out you are pregnant?  Unfortunately there is little other than anecdotal evidence on the relationship between pregnancy and riding, but there are a few basic things to consider.  Falling is your biggest risk, as a fall from horseback can easily lead to difficulties in the pregnancy, including miscarriage.  Additionally, there is the risk of being kicked, stepped on, or even knocked over when working with horses on the ground.  Some women find that as their bodies change so does their center of gravity, making it difficult for them to continue riding as they once did.  Others are easily tired or may have bladder control issues that make riding difficult.  In addition to physical factors, just the worry alone can make the experience unpleasant.  If you do decide to keep riding, make sure you are handling quiet horses that are less likely to spook or pull.  Consider changing your activities to include more ground work or even driving.  If you have any history of pregnancy loss before 24 weeks or are currently experiencing high risk conditions, it is probably better to play it safe and not ride at all.  Most physicians agree that if your body is used to a certain routine, it should be safe to continue that through the pregnancy.  Therefore, if you are used to riding your horse three times a week, you can probably continue at this pace, but it wouldn’t be the best time to sign up for a three day event.  Continuing to ride through your pregnancy is a difficult decision, and ultimately one that only the expectant mother herself can make, with input from her obstetrician.

Filed Under: Horse Safety, Riding Tagged With: Horse Safety, horseback riding, pregnancy, Riding
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