Ask the Farrier » Horse Safety

Safely Leading Your Horse

admin — Sat, 26 Jan 2008 18:40:25 +0000

Working with horses on the ground can be just as dangerous as riding, with the possibility of a horse stepping on or knocking over their handler. Here are some tips on how to safely lead your horse on the ground.

Stand on the left side of your horse, holding the lead rope close to his face in your right hand. Gather the excess lead rope and fold it into your left hand. Don’t allow it to drag on the ground as either you or the horse could trip or become entangled.
Walk at the horse’s shoulder, giving a gentle tug to ask him to move forward and a firm backward pull to ask him to stop. To turn, twist your hand in the direction you wish to go.
Don’t let your horse lag too far behind. If he spooks he could run you over. Avoid letting your horse get too far ahead where he can either drag you or kick out with his back feet.
Never wrap the excess lead rope around your hand. If your horse spooks, you could be dragged. For the same reason, do not lead a horse by putting your hand inside his halter.
Choose a lead rope that is wide enough to be comfortable in your hand, and that won’t give you rope burn should the horse pull it through your fingers
Don’t store your lead rope where it is damp, as they are susceptible to mold, and don’t leave it where your horse can chew on it.
Avoid using snaps that have rusted, as they will be difficult to get on and off.
Remember, your lead rope isn’t leading your horse, you are! If your horse is not respectful when being led, he needs more training and practice to learn how to be more mannerly.

Trail Riding Safety During Hunting Season

admin — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 15:54:06 +0000

Riders who board their horses near the city and stay on relatively urban trails probably never have to worry about riding during hunting season. However, if you ride your horse in a shared use area that is open to hunters, you must take measures to ensure that you and your horse are not confused with a hunter’s target. Although it is the hunter’s responsibility to confirm his prey before pulling the trigger, mistakes can happen and every year horses and people are shot by mistake. Here are some tips on keeping you and your horse safe during hunting season.

If at all possible, avoid areas that are well-known hunting locations. It is best not to take the risk that you or your horse will wind up catching a stray bullet.
Wear bright colors to help hunters distinguish you from their prey. Fix brightly colored flagging tape to your horse’s saddle and bridle, and be sure to wear a bright cover on your helmet and bright clothing. If you don’t have a brightly colored shirt or jacket, try using flagging tape to make armbands. Bright orange or lime green are probably your best options.
When your horse moves through the brush, he will make noise in the same fashion as large game. To make sure that hunters don’t mistake the sound of your horse, try a large cowbell attached to the saddle or halter. This will make a very distinctive noise that will carry quite far. If you can’t find a cowbell, take bear bells and either talk or sing loudly.
Stay on designated trails, as these are unlikely areas for hunters to be active.
Try riding at midday, as most hunters are out in the early morning or early evening. Also, your bright colors will be at their most effective in the midday sun.
Avoid heavily forested areas wherever possible.

Remember, not all hunters are law abiding and follow the rules. Even when hunting is not allowed, be prepared for poachers. Any time you ride out in the bush, make sure you and your horse stand out.

Leg Protection for Your Horse

admin — Wed, 26 Dec 2007 20:32:55 +0000

Depending on what type of training you do with your horse, you may find that his legs require additional protection from scrapes and bruising. Here are several of the most common types of leg boots and wraps available, and their uses.

Bell boots. Usually made of thick rubber, these boots fasten at the fetlock and hang down over the top of a horse’s hoof. They are primarily used with horses that, for one reason or another, are at risk of over-reaching, hitting their front foot with their hind one when moving out. These can prevent cuts and lameness on the front feet, and also protect shoes from being pulled.
Tendon Boots. Typically used in show jumping, these boots protect a horse’s legs from damage when hitting the rails of a jump. It is important not to fit boots too tightly, as this can cause pressure and damage to the canon bone. However, also beware of doing the boots up too loosely and allowing them to slip.
Travel Boots. These are typically fitted to the front and back legs and are used when trailering a horse to prevent damage from them banging their legs while in transit or when loading or unloading.
Hoof Boots. These boots, made to fit over a horse’s entire hoof, act as an alternative to a horseshoe. They are useful should a horse throw a shoe, and can also be used on barefoot horses when trail riding to provide protection to their feet. Additionally, hoof boots are often used when poulticing a hoof injury.

Remember to get your horse comfortable with the boots first before putting them on, and always do up your straps from back to front. Fastening too tightly can cause pressure and cut off circulation, but too loosely can allow the boots to slip and cause your horse to stumble and possibly injure himself. If you are unsure about how to properly put on a boot, talk to an experienced horse person or trainer.

Your Horse’s Pulse, Respiration and Temperature

admin — Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:07:41 +0000

Since many ailments are more easily treatable with early detection, being able to catch early warning signs that something is changing in your horse’s body is vitally important. All horse owners should know their horse’s resting heart rate, respiration, and temperature.

To check your horse’s pulse, find an artery close to the skin and count the number of beats per minute. One of the easiest to find is the maxillary artery which lies under the jawbone. A normal resting horse will have a pulse of approximately 30 – 40 beats per minute. The digital artery in your horse’s fetlock is another important one to check regularly. In a resting horse the artery can be hard to find. However, a throbbing, racing pulse here can be an early sign of laminitis.

Measuring your horse’s rate of respiration can be a little trickier, particularly in a resting horse. The best method is to use a stethoscope on the horse’s trachea, on his neck just under the throatlatch area. The ratio of pulse to respiration should be anywhere from 4:1 to 2:1. If his respiration matches or exceeds his pulse, then your horse is suffering from oxygen deprivation and stress.

Temperature is another key indicator that something is not quite right in your horse’s body. To measure his temperature you will need a thermometer designed for horses, coated with a lubricant. It is a good idea to secure a string to the end of the thermometer to ensure it doesn’t get lost. Move your horse’s tail to the side and gently insert the thermometer at a slightly upward angle. After approximately two minutes, you can remove it and read your horse’s temperature. A normal body temperature should be 99 – 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and abnormally high or low temperatures are indicators that something may be wrong.

Dealing with a Snakebite

admin — Fri, 14 Dec 2007 20:04:33 +0000

If you live and ride in an area with poisonous snakes, it is vital to know how to handle a potentially deadly snakebite. Here’s what to do if your horse gets bitten.

Call your vet. This is an emergency situation that requires immediate attention. Most bites occur on the horse’s muzzle, and the resulting swelling can cause them to have breathing and swallowing difficulties. If left too long, the venom can also cause more severe symptoms such as fainting and irregular heartbeats, and bring on side effects such as laminitis.
Avoid moving your horse as much as possible. Keep him quiet in his stall until the vet arrives. The more he moves, the more toxins he’ll absorb into his bloodstream.
If you can do so safely, identify the snake that bit your horse. If you can’t identify it, remember what it looks like. This will help your vet know what to expect from the venom.
Don’t try to treat the wound yourself. Cutting the wound open and attempting to get the poison out rarely works and will risk further infection to your horse. Applying heat or ice to the wound may cause tissue damage.
Be prepared to tell your vet when your horse last had his tetanus shot.

Many horses do not receive enough venom in the bite to actually be fatal, although if left untreated, they may be at risk of secondary infections and conditions. When there is a high amount of toxin administered, only about 25% of cases are fatal. Your veterinarian will perform a blood test to determine whether your horse requires anti-venom, and whether his body will accept it without a negative reaction. He will then administer it intravenously and also inject it around the wound site. This tissue will slough away, leaving an open wound that will require care for the next several weeks.

What to Do When Your Horse Visits the Veterinarian

admin — Thu, 06 Dec 2007 22:33:19 +0000

Even if your horse is incredibly healthy, he will likely experience a vet exam at least once a year for vaccinations and dental work. All horses should know how to stand calmly and be examined by your veterinarian. Here are some things to bear in mind, to keep both you and your horse safe and unstressed during a vet visit.

If at all possible, exercise your horse prior to the vet’s arrival, particularly if he is stabled. Once he gets all his excess energy out he’ll be a much easier horse to handle.
Practice touching your horse all over his body, and get him comfortable with being poked and prodded. Play with his mouth, handle his ears, feel his legs.
Be prepared for the vet’s arrival with a clean horse. Your vet doesn’t want to have to handle a dirty horse, and in fact, a dirty coat can mask problems such as skin infections. Your vet will want to see your horse at his best.
During the exam, stand on the same side of your horse as your vet. You’ll be able to talk more easily, and if your horse spooks there is less chance of one of you getting hurt.
Give your vet plenty of room to work and don’t forget good lighting. Have the area cleared and ready to go. If your stall is too small or dark, be prepared and have another more suitable area ready.
Know where your power outlets are, as well as running water. Have warm water available if possible, even if it is only by bringing a small kettle with you.
Try to keep calm. Your horse will easily pick up on your stress levels. If you are calm and confident, there is a good chance he will be too.

Tying your horse

admin — Tue, 04 Dec 2007 23:47:52 +0000

Most horse owners routinely tie up their horses, whether during grooming, tacking up, or just to keep the horse secure while they attend to something else. However, if not done correctly, this seemingly simple and everyday practice could be putting you and your horse in a very dangerous situation.

Always tie your horse with a quick release knot. If you aren’t sure how to do this, ask a friend to show you, or check horse care books or websites. Most will have diagrams that you can use to practice. Should your horse spook or pull away, it is imperative that the knot collapse, otherwise your horse will panic at being trapped and could seriously injure himself or others. As he pulls, he’ll tighten the rope making it difficult to get a non-quick release knot undone. Never tie your horse by his bridle. As he pulls to get free he could severely injure his mouth.

Don’t tie to any object that is not secure. Fences are the best option, using the fence post rather than the rail. If your horse pulls, he should not be able to drag anything away with him. Check posts before tying to make sure that they aren’t rotten or inadequately secured into the ground. Wherever possible, keep the rope chest high to avoid it dangling around your horse’s legs and tripping him.

If you are tying your horse to your trailer or using cross-ties remember to always use quick release clasps. These clasps are made to release when met with sudden force. This way, if the horse pulls its head quickly, trying to get free, the clasp will open. They are also easier to release a spooked horse as it just takes a quick pull to get them loose. Check clasps regularly to ensure that they don’t become rusty.

Dealing with a Cast Horse

admin — Fri, 30 Nov 2007 20:13:12 +0000

If you’ve ever seen a horse that has cast himself, you’re not likely to forget the sight. Although it doesn’t happen often, this is an emergency situation that is possible for every horse owner to find themselves in. Sometimes a horse will misjudge how much room they have when they lie down or roll near the wall of their stall or a fence. Their legs get trapped and they have no way of pushing themselves away or getting their feet back up from under them.

Should you find yourself in this startling situation, consider your own safety first. If at all possible, don’t try to deal with the horse on your own. If he isn’t thrashing too much, get close to your horse and pull his head away from the wall. This may give him enough room to scramble back to his feet. If not, try pulling the head and tail at the same time. If your horse is panicked and thrashing, try looping a leadshank around the hind area and pull him forward.

Another tactic is to pull the horse’s feet, rolling him over and allowing him the space to get up. If your horse is quiet, you can probably do this by hand but if needed, a lead rope can also be looped around a leg for the same effect.

Be aware that as soon as your horse is able, he will want to scramble to his feet and will likely be nervous, agitated, and may even kick out. Make sure that you think ahead and have a quick escape route in place for when your horse does get free. Once he is up and calm, check him over for any scrapes or cuts, and walk him out for a few minutes to watch for lameness.

Prevent Toxic Hay from Harming Your Horse

admin — Mon, 26 Nov 2007 21:25:09 +0000

Few things have more potential to seriously damage your horse’s health than his feed. Whether it’s moldy or dusty hay, toxic plants, or simply the type of hay, what your horse ingests will have serious implications on his overall well-being. It is important, first and foremost, to feed your horse hay that is compatible with his body’s needs. Different types of hay will have different levels of proteins and sugars, and not all are good for every horse. For instance, if your horse is prone to episodes of laminitis, then it is best to feed a low sugar and low protein hay, such as a local grass hay or even timothy. However, if your horse is working hard and in competitive training, you may need to feed a higher energy feed such as alfalfa. Usually you will wind up feeding some type of combination, but just be aware that what you are feeding your horse could be making him sick. Check with your veterinarian about the best type of hay for your horse.

Once you have narrowed down what you are looking for, you’ll need to find a supplier. Be sure to inspect their bales for evidence of mold or toxic plants. Walk their fields if at all possible to look for toxic plants that grow in your area. Hay bales should be weed free, but if you do find plants in your hay, remove anything that you aren’t sure of. You can also try over-feeding your horse slightly, as he will have some ability to choose not to eat the toxic plants. If you are feeding alfalfa, be aware of blister beetles – horses only need to ingest a few of these poisonous insects to become seriously ill. Don’t buy alfalfa that has been crimped – in this process the beetles are crushed, causing the toxin to spread into the hay.

The best hay bales will be green, sweet smelling, and free of unwanted plants.

Deworming Your Horse

admin — Mon, 26 Nov 2007 21:20:03 +0000

If you want to keep your horse happy, healthy, and free from energy sucking parasites, it is vital to implement a deworming routine that is both varied and regular. Most horses should be dewormed about every two months. If your barn typically has new horses arriving all the time, or if your horse is either very young or very old, you might wish to talk to your veterinarian about a more frequent deworming schedule. Conversely, if your horse spends most of his time in a large pasture with a relatively stable herd and few newcomers, then you might be able to decrease the regularity to just a few times per year.

It is important to remember that not all deworming products kill all worms. There is even some evidence to suggest that over time worms can develop a resistance to particular products. Therefore, it is important to change your dewormer throughout the year. Each time you treat your horse, you should be using a product that deals with strongyles, roundworms, and pinworms. Once per year you should use a product that also handles tapeworms, and twice per year one that takes care of bots, if you live in affected areas.

It’s best to use an ivermectin product in late spring and early fall to deal with bots and other worms, and Strongid P in the summer for tapeworms. The remaining treatments can alternate with different products – try checking with your vet to find out what works best in your area. Dewormers are conveniently sold in paste form, so the procedure should be relatively simple. Just be sure to do it before feeding time, or else rinse his mouth with water and a clean syringe, or the paste may get caught up with his food and be spit out. Be sure to get the paste all the way back or it will spill out all over the floor, and likely on you too! For particularly finicky horses there are many new flavored products available as well.

Ask the Farrier » Horse Safety

Safely Leading Your Horse

Related Posts

Trail Riding Safety During Hunting Season

Related Posts

Leg Protection for Your Horse

Related Posts

Your Horse’s Pulse, Respiration and Temperature

Related Posts

Dealing with a Snakebite

Related Posts

What to Do When Your Horse Visits the Veterinarian

Related Posts

Tying your horse

Related Posts

Dealing with a Cast Horse

Related Posts

Prevent Toxic Hay from Harming Your Horse

Related Posts

Deworming Your Horse

Related Posts